Up until the 1960s/1970s, the average size of wristwatches was much more restrained than current standards: a “standard” gentleman’s timepiece would feature a 33mm diameter, 35 being already considered large.
That is why reference 570, nicknamed "Calatravone" (Italian for large Calatrava), is an outlier among mid-century production. The oversize version of 31mm ref. 96, thanks to its dimensions, rarity and timeless Calatrava design it has become one of the most sought after time-only vintage timepieces ever made.
Introduced in 1938, it was manufactured with both subsidiary and center seconds configurations and case in stainless steel, the three gold colors, and platinum. While the most commonly seen version of the 570 features a very elegant but equally simple dial devoid of most graphics, there are exceptions to this rule.
At the pinnacle of 570 collecting, we find without a doubt the three-tone dials with Breguet numerals. A perfect combination of styles, these dials strike an incredible balance between flair (Breguet numerals, multi-tone dial) and restrained elegance: the overall result does not feel excessive or overly decorated, but rather conveys an idea of eclectic elegance difficult to match. It is not a surprise that such a dial style was re-interpreted in modern key - and actually with very few modification - on modern reference 5196P.
In fact, the multi-tone dial/Breguet numerals configuration appears in a number of variations. It can feature engraved/enameled numerals (for an example see lot 160, Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII, May 2021), large Breguet numerals (a set of three pieces in this configuration was reportedly owned by a famous Italian collector) and the present small Breguet numerals configuration, which has appeared so far on only one other timepiece.
Given its incredible elusiveness, astounding good looks, and the superb condition of preservation, it is unarguable that the present timepiece is one of the most attractive, important, well-preserved (and thus, collectible) time-only wristwatches made in the entire history of watchmaking.
