Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV Geneva Friday, November 5, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1973
    Reference No: 1680 inside caseback repeated with serial number 3'728'904
    Movement No: D590137
    Case No: 3'728'904
    Model Name: Submariner "FAP"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.70
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    An extremely rare example, the present watch is one of probably only a handful of Red Submariners delivered to the Peruvian Air Force. While it is commonly known that the Peruvian Air Force ordered a number of Cosmograph Daytonas during the 1970s, they had also requested an exceedingly small number of Submariners during this period.

    Its state of preservation is absolutely remarkable. Displaying thick bevels, crisp edges and sharp engravings, the present watch is a marvel indeed. The caseback, like all "FAP" watches displays "Fuerza Aérea del Perú" as well as the code "52" on the bottom. Most of these numbers have been rubbed out with general wear, yet this one remains evident. Furthermore, the serial number is repeated inside the caseback, another sign of a special order watch.

    The dial is also preserved in excellent and extremely attractive condition. The luminous dots have aged evenly with the hands, and now display warm patina. Furthermore, all the graphics remain intact and vivid.

    While it is an incredibly rare opportunity to handle such a distinguished timepiece, it's even more extraordinary to have the opportunity to acquire one.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680 inside caseback repeated with serial number 3'728'904
A highly rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, made for the Peruvian Air Force

Circa 1973
39mm Diameter
Case, dial movement and bracelet signed

CHF25,000 - 45,000 

Sold for CHF60,480

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East Director

The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV

Geneva Auction 5 & 7 November 2021