Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV Geneva Friday, November 5, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1987
    Reference No: 18058
    Movement No: 1'883'912
    Case No: 9'721'040
    Model Name: Day-Date "Rainbow"
    Material: 18K yellow gold and multi-colored sapphires
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee September 12, 2019, service invoice and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market. It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations. Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dials, bracelets, bezels and gold-finished designs. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige.

    The present watch, previously unknown to the auction market, is most probably one of the most important Day-Date discoveries in recent years. It is one of the very first "Rainbow" models the manufacture ever made, probably even before Rolex had officially coined the model name. It is most notably adorned with a beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel's beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex's technical superiority and eye for color. The dial also displays gemstones in a rainbow hue, referencing the colors of the bezel.

    Most interestingly, the watch has a reference number completely different from other Rolex Day-Date models. Cased in yellow gold, it carries the reference number 18058. It is notable that the only other three vintage Day-Date models with a rainbow bezel are in white gold and carry the reference number 18059. It is commonly believed that white metal Day-Dates are rarer than their yellow gold counter parts, however for this particular rainbow model, the present timepiece is the only yellow gold example known. The present model is the direct inspiration behind the beloved Daytona and Day-Date Rainbow models of modern times, providing an extremely interesting historical aspect to watch scholarship.

    As an even nicer touch, the watch underwent servicing at Rolex in 2019, giving further confidence of the originality of the timepiece.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 18058
A possibly unique, spectacular and important yellow gold and multi-colored sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds, bracelet and service guarantee

Circa 1987
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF150,000 - 300,000 

Sold for CHF792,300

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East Director

The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV

Geneva Auction 5 & 7 November 2021