Manufacturer: Patek Philippe Year: 1943 Reference No: 570 Movement No: 923'873 Case No: 626'912 Model Name: Calatrava, "Calatravone" Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Manual, cal. 12'''120, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Patek Philippe pin buckle Dimensions: 36mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with silvered dial and Breguet numerals in 1943 and its subsequent sale on November 26, 1943.
Catalogue Essay
Up until the 1960s/1970s, the average size of wristwatches was much more restrained than current standards: a “standard” gentleman’s timepiece would feature a 33mm diameter, 35 being already considered large.
That is why reference 570, nicknamed "Calatravone" (Italian for large Calatrava), is an outlier among mid-century production. The oversize version of 31mm ref. 96, thanks to its dimensions, rarity and timeless Calatrava design it has become one of the most sought after time-only vintage timepieces ever made.
Introduced in 1938, it was manufactured with both subsidiary and center seconds configurations and case in stainless steel, the three gold colors, and platinum. While the most commonly seen version of the 570 features a very elegant but equally simple dial devoid of most graphics, there are exceptions to this rule.
At the pinnacle of 570 collecting, we find without a doubt the three-tone dials with Breguet numerals. A perfect combination of styles, these dials strike an incredible balance between flair (Breguet numerals, multi-tone dial) and restrained elegance: the overall result does not feel excessive or overly decorated, but rather conveys an idea of eclectic elegance difficult to match. It is not a surprise that such a dial style was re-interpreted in modern key - and actually with very few modification - on modern reference 5196P.
In fact, the multi-tone dial/Breguet numerals configuration appears in a number of variations. It can feature engraved/enameled numerals (for an example see lot 160, Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII, May 2021), large Breguet numerals (a set of three pieces in this configuration was reportedly owned by a famous Italian collector) and the present small Breguet numerals configuration, which has appeared so far on only one other timepiece.
Given its incredible elusiveness, astounding good looks, and the superb condition of preservation, it is unarguable that the present timepiece is one of the most attractive, important, well-preserved (and thus, collectible) time-only wristwatches made in the entire history of watchmaking.
Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.
