Specialists' Picks: The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII

Specialists' Picks: The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII

The Phillips team selects the watches that speak to them most this live sale.

The Phillips team selects the watches that speak to them most this live sale.

The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII takes place on 30 & 31 May 2026 at our West Kowloon headquarters and features more than 250 of the world’s finest watches. We asked our specialists to each highlight a pair of watches that particularly resonates with them this sale.

There is something here for every type of collector: contemporary independents, mid-century classics, gem-set jewelry watches, neo-vintage rarities, artistic métiers d’art creations, and pushing-the-envelope minute repeaters.

 

Lot 853: Cartier Ref. CRHPI01088 Crash Squelette No. 1. in Platinum set with Diamonds and Rubies

Estimate: HK$1,000,000–2,000,000

Lot 1077: Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 “Ricciolo” in 19k Pink Gold

Estimate: HK$100,000–200,000

Gertrude Wong, Head of Sale, Specialist

My two picks this season sit at opposite ends of the spectrum. One is a vintage watch that flies under the radar and is truly understated. The other is a modern piece – flamboyant, over the top, and guaranteed to catch your attention.

My guilty pleasure is the Cartier Crash Squelette in platinum. The Cartier Crash remained largely unchanged after its introduction in 1967, but in 2015 Cartier unveiled a far more radical interpretation of the design. The case became larger and bolder, while the dial and movement were skeletonized for the first time, with Roman numerals integrated directly into the bridges.

Lot 853: A 2017 Cartier Ref. CRHPI01088 Crash Squelette No. 1. in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$1,000,000–2,000,000.
Lot 853: A 2017 Cartier Ref. CRHPI01088 Crash Squelette No. 1. in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$1,000,000–2,000,000.

This example takes things even further with a bezel set with diamonds and rubies. It has an incredible polka-dot look that feels slightly mischievous and genuinely fun.

Purchased by the original owner when it was launched in 2017, it has remained in pristine condition ever since. More importantly, this is the first time the model has appeared at auction. Even better, “No. 1” is engraved on the caseback, meaning this is the very first Cartier Crash Squelette created by the brand.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 “Ricciolo”, a watch I would happily wear every day.

“Ricciolo” means “curl” in Italian, referring to the wonderfully curled design of the lugs. This 1945 example stopped me in my tracks when it arrived at the office. The condition is absolutely stunning.

 Lot 1077: A 1945 Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 “Ricciolo” in 19k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: Estimate: HK$100,000–200,000
Lot 1077: A 1945 Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 “Ricciolo” in 19k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: Estimate: HK$100,000–200,000

What makes it especially appealing is the pink-on-pink configuration: a pink gold case paired with a matching pink dial featuring the long Patek Philippe signature. The presence of the original certificate only adds to its appeal.

Without question, this is one of the finest examples I’ve ever seen, and one of my favorite Patek Philippe watches in the sale this season. I would put it on my wrist any day. Still, if I woke up feeling a little flamboyant one morning, the Crash would definitely be my pick.

 

Lot 850: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25563OR.PP.A002XX.01 in 18k Pink Gold

Estimate: HK$200,000–400,000

Lot 846: Chopard Ref. 168604-3001 L.U.C Full Strike in Carburized Steel

Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000

Alvin Lau, Specialist

Forget about the Royal Pop for a moment: let me bring you back to the golden age of neo-vintage. My first pick is the Audemars Piguet Ref. 25563, a skeletonized chronograph made in the mid-1990s.

Here’s the kicker: only 67 pieces were made across the entire reference, and they weren’t even cataloged back then. You couldn’t simply camp outside the boutique hoping to get one; these watches were offered to VIPs only. In this pink gold iteration, only 10 examples were made.

Lot 850: A 1994 Audemars Piguet Ref. 25563OR.PP.A002XX.01 in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$200,000–400,000
Lot 850: A 1994 Audemars Piguet Ref. 25563OR.PP.A002XX.01 in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$200,000–400,000

While most watchmakers used Lemania-based movements, Audemars Piguet went full old school here and fitted the watch with a Valjoux 23. And they didn’t simply drop it in. They fully openworked it, hand engraved it, and finished it with a gorgeous silver-toned livery. It’s 37mm, slim, and works like a dream.

Next up, my second pick is a modern-day beauty: the Chopard L.U.C Full Strike. In fact, it was Chopard’s first minute repeater, and they really showed everyone how it’s done.

Most repeaters use steel gongs, but Chopard went full mad scientist here. The gongs and the front crystal were carved from a single block of sapphire, meaning they are literally one piece. Sapphire resonates like crazy, creating one of the richest sounds.

Lot 846: A circa 2020 Chopard Ref. 168604-3001 L.U.C Full Strike in carburized steel, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000
Lot 846: A circa 2020 Chopard Ref. 168604-3001 L.U.C Full Strike in carburized steel, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000

You’ll also notice there’s no slider on the side; you simply press the button integrated into the crown to activate the repeater. That’s just one of the reasons the watch won the GPHG Aiguille d’Or in 2017.

This example is also limited to 10 pieces and is cased in carburized steel, which makes it even more durable.

 

Lot 844: Haldimann Ref. H11/12 Central Balance in 18k Pink Gold

Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000

Lot 831: Audemars Piguet Ref. 56303PT.OO.0789PT.01 Royal Oak in Platinum

Estimate: HK$190,000–420,000

Yunyi Xu, Specialist

I have selected two timepieces for their pure time-only aesthetic. My first pick is the Haldimann Central Balance. This particular example is especially interesting because it is encased in pink gold, whereas most examples were produced in either platinum or steel.

Lot 844: A circa 2020 Haldimann Ref. H11/12 Central Balance in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000
Lot 844: A circa 2020 Haldimann Ref. H11/12 Central Balance in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$400,000–800,000

What I like most about Haldimann watches is the classic vibe they carry, along with the incredible attention to detail and craftsmanship. There’s nothing redundant about the design, and you can tell that every aspect of the watch has been thoughtfully and meticulously executed.

This includes the hand-engraved Roman numerals to the signature Haldimann hands, which I believe were inspired by a wooden clock made by the Haldimann family in the mid-17th century.

For a watchmaking family tradition that dates back to the 1600s, I think Haldimann does an incredible job of finding the right balance between tradition and innovation.

My second choice is a mid-sized Audemars Piguet Royal Oak from 1992. I’m not usually a fan of Royal Oaks, mostly because it’s difficult to find one that sits well on my wrist. This one, however, is perfectly sized. And just look at how thin it is – it’s incredibly easy to wear.

Lot 831: A 1992 Audemars Piguet Ref. 56303PT.OO.0789PT.01 Royal Oak in platinum, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$190,000–420,000
Lot 831: A 1992 Audemars Piguet Ref. 56303PT.OO.0789PT.01 Royal Oak in platinum, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$190,000–420,000

The dial is as simple as it can get: no date, no center seconds. The diamond indexes add just the right amount of charm, but what really makes the watch special is the moment you pick it up and realize it isn’t made of steel, but platinum – something very unusual and rare for a quartz Royal Oak.

So, despite its small size and thin profile, the watch still carries great presence on the wrist, and that’s something you can only really appreciate once you wear it.

 

Lot 969: Piaget Ref. GOA39151 Altiplano Scrimshaw in 18k Pink Gold

Estimate: HK$150,000–300,000

Lot 909: Piaget Ref. GOA47543 Black Tie in Platinum

Estimate: HK$500,000–1,000,000

Aaron Kwok, Cataloguer

This season I picked two lovely watches, and they’re both from Piaget.

The first is a very thin and flat-cased dress watch with a truly special dial featuring the scrimshaw engraving technique. Scrimshaw is a very fine engraving technique that originated in the 18th and 19th centuries, when whalers and sailors engraved and inked whale teeth.

Lot 969: A circa 2016 Piaget Ref. GOA39151 Altiplano Scrimshaw in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$150,000–300,000
Lot 969: A circa 2016 Piaget Ref. GOA39151 Altiplano Scrimshaw in 18k pink gold, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$150,000–300,000

You need a very smooth and dense surface to create this kind of engraving and apply the ink properly, so this is not ordinary ivory – it is 40,000-year-old fossilized mammoth ivory. You can see that beautiful ivory tone across the dial.

There are many world-map watches out there, but I think this one has a particularly lovely vintage feel.

My second pick is the Piaget Black Tie, also known as the Andy Warhol watch. As the name suggests, Andy Warhol owned a Black Tie in the 1970s, though his example was in gold. This one is made in platinum and features an onyx dial with baguette-cut diamond hour markers.

Lot 909: A circa 2023 Piaget Ref. GOA47543 Black Tie, No.3 of a unique edition, in platinum, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$500,000–1,000,000
Lot 909: A circa 2023 Piaget Ref. GOA47543 Black Tie, No.3 of a unique edition, in platinum, included in The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII. Estimate: HK$500,000–1,000,000

This piece is a No.3 of a unique six-piece edition, and it is freshly unsealed, so the condition is impeccable. I think this is a very neat and tidy dress watch.

 

Click Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII to learn more, place a bid, and view the entire catalogue .

 


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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