Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1990s
    Reference No: 32001
    Case No: 728’304, 22’223
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. BM550 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Gold plated buckle
    Clasp/Buckle: Leather
    Dimensions: 30.5mm width x 30.5mm height
    Signed: Dial signed Cartier, case and movement signed Bauer & Mercier
    Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier service invoice from 2023 and red pouch.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The dual-time complication is not foreign to Cartier at all, an iconic fitted into coveted models from the Parisian Maison such as the Cartier Tonneau, Tank Cintrée and Tank À Vis, the double crowned timepieces balances both elegance and practicality at the same time. The present square-shaped timepiece is somewhat of a peculiar sibling from the family. Cased in yellow gold with short faceted straight lugs, the timepiece is not your everyday Cartier. It features a golden canvas with two dial operated by individual crowns, each stamped in black with a Cartier signature beside its Roman numeral dial. Unusual as it is, this rare specimen is in fact powered by a Baume & Mercier movement.

    This brings us back to 1993, the birth of Vendôme Luxury Group who operated one of the world’s most distinguished collection of luxury goods including Cartier. As the King of Jewellers, Cartier further acquired controlling shares in Piaget and Baume & Mercier for its reign. During the time, Baume & Mercier would provide movements for a small portion of timepiece for the Maison. Powered by the cal. BM550, the present Cartier Dual-time shares strong similarity to the Baume & Mercier ref. 32001. An extremely rare specimen, this is the first example to appear in the market. Preserved in excellent condition retaining it’s strong lugs and edges, the hallmarks are further well-preserved on the caseback and between the lugs. With a recent Cartier service record this year, the present Cartier Dual-time is certainly a rare breed for Cartier aficionados.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Ref. 32001
A very rare and unusual yellow gold square-shaped dual-time wristwatch with double crown

Circa 1990s
30.5mm width x 30.5mm height
Dial signed Cartier, case and movement signed Bauer & Mercier

HK$80,000 - 160,000 

Sold for HK$254,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023