Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1965
    Reference No: 5513
    Case No: 1’172’064, inside caseback stamped “5513, III.64”
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet stamped “7206”, endlinks stamped “80”, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “3.64”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by blank Rolex guarantee, instruction manual, product literature, hang tags, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1962, Rolex introduced the Submariner ref. 5513, which would become one of their most important and long-standing Submariner models. The ref. 5513 had an exceptionally long production run that spanned 27 years before finally ceasing in 1989. This particular reference established the characteristic Submariner aesthetic that Rolex still utilizes in their contemporary Submariner designs today.

    When the ref. 5513 was first released, it featured glossy black lacquered dials with gilt text. Additionally, these early dials had a "meters first" layout, with the depth rating in meters before the feet measurement. By 1970, Rolex had transitioned to matte black dials with white text, and a "feet first" layout.

    It is estimated that Rolex only produced the glossy gilt dials for the first 4 years of the ref. 5513's lifespan. As such, these early iterations with glossy black dials are considered quite rare and highly desirable to collectors. The glossy dials represent some of the last of their kind before Rolex switched definitively to matte.

    This particular ref. 5513 fitted with the coveted glossy gilt “meters first” dial dates to circa 1965, as evidenced by its 1.1 million serial number. Offered in attractive overall condition, with beautifully aged luminous dial plots, the present example embodies a seminal era of Submariner design. Vintage Rolex aficionados will appreciate the opportunity to add this collectible timepiece to their assemblage.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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998

Ref. 5513
A well-preserved stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “glossy” black lacquered “meter first” dial, center seconds, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1965
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
HK$160,000 - 320,000 
€19,400-38,800
$20,500-41,000

Sold for HK$241,300

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023