Vacheron Constantin - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin
    Year: Circa 2019
    Reference No: 88172/000R-D118
    Movement No: 5’226’609
    Case No: 1’255’065
    Model Name: Traditionnelle Grandes Complications
    Material: 18K pink gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 2253, 30 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K pink gold Vacheron Constantin deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 44mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of the present watch in 2014, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The art of horology has long been fascinated by the equation of time, which displays the difference in minutes between solar time as shown on a sundial and the constant mean time we use today. This complex astronomical indication depends on an oval cam, calculated according to the sun's daily declination and rotating once a year. As the cam turns, a hand following its contours indicates the equation of time, while further indications of sunrise and sunset throughout the year rely on a similar cam designed for the wearer’s locality.

    Vacheron Constantin's expertise in such refined complications is evident in the Traditionnelle Grandes Complications ref. 88172. The gracefully shaped equation of time cam rotates smoothly between 10 and 11 o'clock, while retrograde hands mark sunrise and sunset at 8 and 4 o'clock, unique to the wearer’s latitude. Above 6 o'clock, the tourbillon carriage shaped like Vacheron Constantin's Maltese Cross emblem rotates elegantly once per minute.

    The perpetual calendar indications are laid out in perfect symmetry, with days, months, and dates at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock, and a leap year indicator discreetly placed at 1 o'clock. Despite the mechanical intricacy, the cal. 2253 delivers an exceptional 14-day power reserve. This remarkable feat is achieved through twin mainspring barrels, with the remaining reserve displayed on the sapphire caseback.

    The silvery dial provides elegant contrast with the pink gold case, while engine-turned centres on each subdial add visual depth. Pairing refinement with complexity, this exceptional timepiece preserved in barely worn condition demonstrates Vacheron Constantin's peerless ingenuity and mastery of grand complications.

  • Artist Biography

    Vacheron Constantin

    Swiss • 1755

    The world's oldest watch brand in continuous operation since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin was the first watch company to manufacture movements with interchangeable parts beginning in 1839. Vacheron's watches are admired for their Latin-influenced case designs, well-balanced proportions and exquisitely finished movements of the highest quality. The Geneva-based manufacturer is known for their highly complicated masterpieces, including the King Farouk Grand Complication made in 1935, the Tour de l'Ile that was the most complicated serially produced wristwatch when introduced in 2005 and the 57260 — the world’s most complicated watch — made in 2015.

    Key vintage models include minute repeating wristwatches such as the references 4261, chronographs such as the references 4178 and 6087 and the oversized Cioccolotone models such as ref. 4737. Collectors also appreciate Vacheron's Chronometer Royal pocket and wristwatches, as well as the '222,' the brand's first luxury sports watch produced from 1977 through 1984.

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Ref. 88172/000R-D118
A highly rare and impressive pink gold perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch with equation of time, sunrise and sunset, power reserve, leap year indication and presentation box

Circa 2019
44mm diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

HK$800,000 - 1,600,000 

Sold for HK$1,143,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023