Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1975
    Reference No: 1665
    Movement No: D’912’155
    Case No: 4’073’728, inside caseback engraved with repeated serial number 4’073’728
    Model Name: Sea-Dweller, “Double Red, MK IV”
    Material: Stainless Steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “585”, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “A”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee stamped Ho Kin Kee Watch Co, Hong Kong, 1976-1977 calendar card, product literatures, green leather wallet, red seal tag, fitted wooden presentation box, and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Conceived as a watch for professional divers, the Sea-Dweller was launched in 1967. At the time of production, it was among the most reliable and robust diver's watches available on the market. Water resistant to 610 meters, its capabilities exceeded that of the Submariner. The watch featured a triple lock crown to ensure its water-resistant ability. The first examples, or "prototypes" displayed a single red Sea-Dweller script. It was only later, starting with the " Mk I Patent Pending Sea-Dweller Double Red" that the dial showed "Sea Dweller Submariner 2000" in two red lines, earning its moniker "Double Red Sea-Dweller".

    While the first examples did not have a helium escape valve, Rolex eventually fitted their Sea-Dwellers with this mechanism, allowing the trapped helium to escape easily. When reference 1665 was first released, Rolex had not patented the technology yet. Thus, the earliest Sea-dwellers were engraved “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on the caseback.

    Among the very last examples produced, the present watch is fitted with a Mk IV dial, evidenced by the "closed 6" and the spiked coronet. This dial variation was among the last and was used until Rolex ceased production of reference 1665.

    Its incredible “new old stock” condition matches, if not surpasses, that of the orangey deep patina dial, making it amongst the best-preserved examples appearing publicly in recent times. Turning the watch around, it still retains the factory green case back sticker and the fresh black ink around the case back should excite the most serious collectors. The present lot could be used to scholarly study how a 1665 case and bracelet appeared when originally delivered by Rolex. It is further enhanced by being a complete set, with an original box and punched guarantee paper.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Property from an Important Japanese Collector

832

Ref. 1665
An incredible, beautifully preserved and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with centre seconds, gas escape valve, date, “double red”, ‘Mark IV’ dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1975
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$400,000 - 800,000 
€48,400-96,700
$51,300-103,000

Sold for HK$1,016,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023