Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1974
    Reference No: 1680, repeated inside caseback
    Movement No: D’626’336
    Case No: 3’740’510
    Model Name: Submariner, “Red Sub”, MK VI
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “380”, max length 175mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “A”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee stamped Rolex Singapore and dated 5th July 1975, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Not just a blueprint for modern dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is an icon that has cultivated a large following dedicated to every variant and slight modification from its first iteration, which appeared in the Rolex catalogue in 1953, to the present day. The Submariner ref. 1680 was launched in 1967. Being the first of its kind to be fitted with a date function, the not-so-inconspicuous date window sparked a heated controversy among watch aficionados that is still aglow today.

    As seen on the present timepiece, the reference displays a ‘feet first’ depth rating and a single line of red ‘Submariner’ script, resulting in its nickname, the “Red Sub”. Deemed a cult favourite among collectors, these rare Submariners with a pop of rouge mark an important milestone for this sports model.

    Of the seven different iterations of "Red Submariner" dials, established by the scholars of the community, the present example is fitted with a Mark VI dial that was approximately produced between the 3 million to 4 million serials. This is distinguished by its closed 6’s in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner which is not printed over white. Extenuating its vintage appeal, the luminous material on the dial itself have aged beautifully, resulting in a rich golden yellow hue.

    The ref. 1680 is a landmark wristwatch for the Rolex brand and bearing a 3.74 million serial, this beautifully preserved Submariner from circa 1974 is a fine example.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Property from an Important Asian Collector

999

Ref. 1680, repeated inside caseback
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK VI dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1974
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 200,000 
€14,500-24,200
$15,400-25,600

Sold for HK$190,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023