Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1930s
    Case No: 5108
    Material: 18K yellow gold and rubies
    Calibre: Manual, 18 jewels
    Dimensions: 45.5mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Sized at 45.5mm diameter cased in precious 18K yellow gold, the French hallmark indicated by an eagle head remains deep and crisp at the base of the pendant. Fitted with a guilloché dial with a Cartier Paris signature at 12 o’clock, this rare pocket watch was born from the maison’s first boutique in Paris during the Thirties.

    A coat of arms on the caseback reflects historical events of the Spanish region and is possibly an adaptation of the Spanish crest of the Crown of Castile, in which its original version features two castles and two lions featured on a red and white checkered background. The Kingdoms of Castile and León came to be known collectively as the Crown of Castile during the union of King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile in 1479. An old castle on a red background is a symbol specific to the Castile region, and the five castles seen on this emblem may represent the five Kingdoms of Spain – Asturias, Galicia, León, Castile, and Aragon. The traditional crest of the Crown of Castile is featured on a red and white checkered background, which is featured on the right side of this emblem. Above this, the claw is likely a nod toward the lion in the original crest, which represents the León region. The piece was found in a Spain antique shop by a collector and comes with the original presentation box. This piece provides a perfect opportunity for a seasoned connoisseur with a desire to hold a piece of history and values the beauty of nostalgia.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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888

A rare and attractive yellow gold rubies-set open-faced pocket watch with guilloche dial, Spanish Crest and presentation box

Circa 1930s
45.5mm diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$62,000 - 140,000 
€7,500-16,900
$7,900-17,900

Sold for HK$190,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023