Daniel Roth - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII Hong Kong Friday, November 24, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
    Year: Circa 1990s
    Reference No: 2147
    Movement No: 19
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, jeweled
    Bracelet/Strap: Lizard
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Daniel Roth pin buckle
    Dimensions: 38mm Length x 35mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    A renowned fourth-generation watchmaker from Nice in France, Daniel Roth moved to Vallée de Joux in 1967 and first began working briefly with Jaeger-LeCoultre, before then joining Audemars Piguet. After that, he devoted himself to one-year further studies dedicated to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s works, before embarking on a 14-year career with Breguet in 1973, which was owned by the Chaumet brothers at the time. He contributed significantly to the revival of Breguet’s workshop and has famously designed and produced the first perpetual calendar wristwatch for the brand. This period was monumental to Roth’s development as an independent watchmaker who embraces the heritage of watchmaking, while having his own distinctive aesthetics.

    In 1988, Roth ventured to starting his own company amidst the recovery from the quartz crisis. Any devoted Daniel Roth watch collectors would know that the most sought-after models are often produced between the years from 1988 to 1994, when Roth still had complete liberty to the design and production of his watches, before his brand was taken control by the Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. The present watch is numbered 19, indicating that it is a rare example from early production.

    Reminiscent of the awe-striking beauty of the Breguet No. 160 Marie-Antoinette pocket watch, which displays its stunning wood-polished pink gold plates, bridges and moving parts on an open-worked dial, this present watch also showcases a mesmerizing pink gold movement inside its yellow gold double-ellipse case. Exposed to the wearer on both the front dial and sapphire case back, the pink gold barrel, bridges and open plates with the most exquisite hand engravings would not fail to enchant you. The patina echoes with the burin marked details of the hand-engravings to emit a brilliant shimmer consisting of a fascinating shade of pink, bronze and silver, rendering a marvellous sight together with the blued hours. The dial design of the timepiece also exhibits a continuation of the Breguet aesthetics, often resonated in Roth’s work, and features the classic satin-finished chapter rings decorated by the hand-made 'filet sauté' guilloché on the rim.

    To astute Roth collectors, the opportunity to own this watch is extremely rare. Not your average chronograph, according to our research this is by far the only example known to have such intriguing combination. An unusual clash of yellow and pink yet evidently harmonious and beautiful, each hand-engraved floral decoration with the master's standard leads you throughout every single component of this gorgeous timepiece powered by the Lemania 2320 movement. Well-preserved with strong case proportions, the hallmarks behind each straight lug is deep and intact.

    With collectors recognizing the importance and extreme rarity of early Daniel Roth creations, this dazzling skeletonized timepiece is a dream and deserves to be heralded as a crown jewel to watch collecting.


Ref. 2147
A possibly unique and mesmerizing skeletonized yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with engraved pink gold dial and movement

Circa 1990s
38mm Length x 35mm Width
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

HK$200,000 - 400,000 

Sold for HK$635,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII

Hong Kong Auction 24-25 November 2023