Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1958 Reference No: 5504 Case No: 372’614 Model Name: Air-King Explorer Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “J/M” Dimensions: 35mm diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The vintage Rolex ref. 5504 stands as a coveted prize for collectors, encapsulating histories of both the Air-King and Explorer. Its origins lie alongside the storied Air-Tiger, Air-Lion and Air-Giant in Rolex's commemorative Aviation series. Of these tributes, only the Air-King endures today. The ref. 5504, with its stainless steel case, smooth bezel and arresting dial marked by dauphine hands and traditional hour markers, represents the most popular embodiment of this foundational model. Its restrained elegance evokes aviation feats of a bygone era.
In the lineage of Rolex's iconic Explorer, the ref. 5504 stands apart as a rare vintage gem. Launched in 1957, four years after the debut of the inaugural ref. 6150, this classically sized Oyster case houses the cal. 1530 movement, first introduced in the Air-King. The ref. 5504 distinguishes itself with a "Super Precision" signature instead of the customary "Superlative Chronometer" designation.
Dating from circa 1958, this particular ref. 5504 combines both the Air-King and Explorer in one watch. The dial has developed a rich cream patina, imparting a unique character that only time can cultivate. For Rolex collectors and aficionados of vintage horology alike, this unusual ref. 5504 Air-King Explorer offers an intriguing opportunity to explore the foundations of an iconic watchmaking heritage.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.