Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1981 Reference No: 16800 Movement No: 0’600’664 Case No: 6’663’364 Model Name: Submariner Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “501 B”, max length 180mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “AB9” Dimensions: 40mm diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex travel case. Further delivered with three individual Tiffany & Co. Service invoices dated 6th October 2000, 15th March 2002 and 14th November 2012.
Catalogue Essay
Rolex has always been a champion of perfecting the smaller and more intricate details of a watch to enhance the performance of their creations. Following the success of the ref. 1680, launched in 1967, the ref. 16800 enjoyed instant recognition when it was unveiled in 1979 for being the first Submariner to be fitted with a sapphire crystal. Framed with a redesigned bezel, the update significantly elevated the model’s resistance to water, rising from a depth rating of 200 meters to 300. Integrating a matte dial into a modern case, this “Transitional Submariner” was the last of its kind to flaunt the now-coveted vintage appeal. While earlier iterations of the ref. 16800 are graced with matte dials and luminous markers, such as the present lot, later variations are fitted with glossy dials with luminous, white gold markers.
Over the decades, the Swiss manufacturer has shared a long history with Tiffany & Co., and the double-signed dial on the present ref. 16800 is a testament to this fruitful partnership. As Tiffany & Co signed watches can only be purchased at their New York flagships, these exclusive pieces have become some of the most highly sought-after sports watches that command a steep premium. The present example is a beautiful stainless steel Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 retailed by Tiffany & Co and is further presented in excellent overall condition.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.