892
Rolex
Ref. 16808
Submariner
An extremely rare and fine yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, matte blue dial, bracelet and guarantee
- Estimate
- HK$200,000 - 400,000€23,400 - 46,700$25,600 - 51,300
HK$381,000
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Rolex
- Year
- Circa 1983
- Reference No
- 16808
- Movement No
- 1’280’028
- Case No
- 8’083’971, inside caseback stamped “16800”
- Model Name
- Submariner
- Material
- 18K yellow gold
- Calibre
- Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm
- Clasp/Buckle
- 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
- Dimensions
- 40mm diameter
- Signed
- Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
- Accessories
- Accompanied by unstamped Rolex guarantee dated 30th July 1988, green card holder, product literature and 1984 calendar.
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Early Gold Submariners are in a league of their own. Introduced in 1979, the Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 series usurped the iconic ref. 1680 series, which was the first of its kind to ever feature a date function. While its aesthetics remain largely untouched, a few upgraded features distinguish the new from its predecessor. For starters, the former Plexiglas was replaced by a sapphire crystal, forever changing the watchmaking industry. Likewise, the ref. 16800 series was fitted with the then-new cal. 3035, equipped with a practical quick-set date function adjustable via the crown at 3 o’clock. Another significant update was the incorporation of a unidirectional rotating bezel, which only rotates counterclockwise, providing extra security while in use.
The ref. 16808 was launched in two different variants with the first being a blue dial with a blue bezel insert, and the second being a black dial with a black bezel insert. In 1987, the reference ceased production, along with its stainless steel counterpart the following year.
Beautifully preserved, the present blue dial Submariner ref. 16808 bears an 8.08 million serial and is an example from circa 1983. The most striking feature of this timepiece is undoubtedly its special matte blue dial. To our knowledge, it appears to be the second known yellow-gold Submariner to have left the factory with such an exotic dial. The first known example was a preceding ref. 1680, auctioned in 2020 at PHILLIPS Geneva for a whopping CHF88,200 following a competitive bidding war. Sitting between the standard black matte dial and blue radial dial, one can only deduce that this highly desirable nipple dial is one of a handful of test dials Rolex used to experiment with their catalogue. Stunningly aged through the ravage of time, the luminous material on the hands and dial have even developed an attractive uniform patina that enhances the watch’s vintage appeal.
The present timepiece is accompanied by its original guarantee and will most certainly tickle the hearts of discerning collectors of rare vintage Rolexes.
The ref. 16808 was launched in two different variants with the first being a blue dial with a blue bezel insert, and the second being a black dial with a black bezel insert. In 1987, the reference ceased production, along with its stainless steel counterpart the following year.
Beautifully preserved, the present blue dial Submariner ref. 16808 bears an 8.08 million serial and is an example from circa 1983. The most striking feature of this timepiece is undoubtedly its special matte blue dial. To our knowledge, it appears to be the second known yellow-gold Submariner to have left the factory with such an exotic dial. The first known example was a preceding ref. 1680, auctioned in 2020 at PHILLIPS Geneva for a whopping CHF88,200 following a competitive bidding war. Sitting between the standard black matte dial and blue radial dial, one can only deduce that this highly desirable nipple dial is one of a handful of test dials Rolex used to experiment with their catalogue. Stunningly aged through the ravage of time, the luminous material on the hands and dial have even developed an attractive uniform patina that enhances the watch’s vintage appeal.
The present timepiece is accompanied by its original guarantee and will most certainly tickle the hearts of discerning collectors of rare vintage Rolexes.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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