Boivin by Belperron, Chocolat Bracelet in Black Onyx, set with Diamonds in Gold, from 1929 with Original Boivin Archive Drawing. Price Upon Request. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.; Nanda Vigo, Linea floor lamp, circa 1968. Estimate $3,000 - 4,000. Design New York.
In honor of Flawless X Vivarium, we asked specialists from Design, Photographs, New Now, and Editions to select works from their own category, inspired by the women-designed jewels in "Woman to Woman." Find out which lamp has chocolat vibes, the sculptural counterpart to an eye-caching woven ring, and much more.
Meaghan Roddy, Senior International Specialist, Design, Americas
Boivin by Belperron, Chocolat Bracelet in Black Onyx, set with Diamonds in Gold, from 1929 with Original Boivin Archive Drawing. Price Upon Request. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman.; Nanda Vigo, Linea floor lamp, circa 1968. Estimate $3,000 - 4,000. Design New York.
I am delighted to know that not only is there a bracelet named “Chocolat” in the Woman to Woman sale, but that we photographed a chocolate bar next to it for the catalogue. I’m of course referring to the Boivin by Belperron, Chocolat bracelet from 1929. It came into existence about 40 years earlier than the Nanda Vigo Linea floor lamp in our Design auction, but both strike the same chord for me. Are they both the most fabulous thing in the room? Yes. Are they both giving off the most beautiful light I’ve ever seen? Yes. Would owning both complete my fantasy of channeling Diana Vreeland? Yes.
Sarah Krueger, Head of Photographs, New York
Margaret, 3 Star Earrings with Spinels and Diamonds set in 18k Red Gold and Silver. Estimate $28,800 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman; Alex Prager, Lower Level, Door 2 from La Grande Sortie, 2006. Sold for $44,100. Photographs New York.
Alex Prager's photographs are deeply cinematic in their conception with characters dressed and made-up to create a world inspired by nostalgic eras of film. While referential to directors from Alfred Hitchcock to David Lynch, the works are a visual world of Prager’s own creation. Likewise, Margaret’s designs are informed by famous jewels worn by starlets and nobilities of the past. Just as Prager’s characters don over the top wigs, costumes, and makeup, the glamour and excess of the tiered earrings makes this not an unlikely pairing, but perhaps a perfect pairing. I could just as soon see one of Prager’s characters wearing them, as I could an actress of today. The two makers delicately combine nostalgia and modernity within their work to create something that is uniquely “now.”
Patrizia Koenig, Head of New Now, New York
Silvia Furmanovich, Woven Bamboo Ring in Bamboo set with Coloured Diamonds and 18k Yellow Gold. Estimate $4,680 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman; Sônia Gomes, Sem título from the series Torção, 2013. Sold for $138,600. New Now New York.
In terms of “sculptural” jewelry, Silvia Furmanovich’s Woven Bamboo Ring really does steal the show! Bedazzled in diamonds, this ring is more than just a eye-catcher—I was intrigued to learn the depth of Furmanovich’s research-based practice. Inspired by Japanese bamboo weaving, she used bamboo grown in the Amazon as her source material, making this a truly cross-cultural piece of jewelry. Exploring themes of nature, craftmanship and cultures, this ring reminds me of Sônia Gomes intricate wall sculpture, Sem título, from the series, Torção. Also a Brazilian native, Gomes calls upon her heritage and creates works infused with collective and personal stories.
Sarah Browne, Associate Specialist, Editions, New York
Hannah Martin, Pierced Stone Ring in Malachite and 18k Yellow Gold. Estimate $7,740 USD. Flawless X Vivarium: Woman to Woman; Tracey Emin, These Feelings Were True, 2020. Estimate £30,000 - 50,000. Evening & Day Editions London.
These two Brits create stunning works of art by tapping into emotions deep within. Tracey Emin is known for her autobiographical imagery, which in turn makes broader statements about life, death, love, sex, and all that is in between. I can’t help but see myself in the arresting eight lithographic portraits of These Feelings Were True. Not only are they emblematic of Emin’s stirring imagery, but they act as mirrors, encouraging the viewer to pause and reflect.
Hannah Martin describes the making of her A New Act of Rebellion collection to Vogue, “This collection was designed as an expression of deep, heartfelt emotion. The pieces should give their wearer strength and power — right now this is something we could definitely all do with.” To me, this ring embodies the sense of hardness and softness; how by embodying that, power can be derived. Whether visual or wearable, both women's work is bold and unapologetic, but healing.
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