Universal - TOKI: Watch Auction Hong Kong Friday, November 22, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Universal
    Year: Circa 1950
    Reference No: 224118
    Case No: 1’435’840
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 285, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: NATO
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 44.5mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    This particular watch is possibly unique and likely initially made as a pair, with the reference number “224118” corresponding to this stopwatch, while the other chronograph watch “224119” is also offered in the auction. At first glance, it may resemble an ordinary oversized pilot watch, but its true identity is that of a very early and rare stopwatch by Universal. Notably, the seconds hand resets when the crown is pulled, marking it as the first known stopwatch complication integrated into a wristwatch by the brand. Powering this remarkable timepiece is a modified caliber 285 by Universal, an advanced 14 lignes chronograph movement produced by the Pellaton factory in Les Ponts-de-Martel during the 1940s and 1950s.

    Featuring fixed bars and a screw down caseback, this watch may have been designed for special expeditions, air force, or military purposes, as it includes an antimagnetic cover to protect the delicate movement. Interestingly, the hash marks are elongated every 6 minutes, which is especially useful for pilots in emergency situations. These 6-minute increments allow for quick calculations of rates such as distance and speed, as they equate to 1/10 of an hour, making them easier to work with than 5-minute or 10-minute increments.

    In absolutely beautiful condition, the luminescent Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock enhance overall legibility, with the radium still reacting nicely to UV light, showing high readings on the Geiger counter. The dial has further aged attractively to a creamy color, with an interesting mark left by the syringe hands at 5:55, indicating they rested in that position for an extended period. This honest feature is also found in the other Universal watch.

    For discerning collectors of stopwatches and chronographs, this piece, offered by a Japanese collector, holds significant horological importance, representing a rare opportunity to own a lasting piece of history.

  • Artist Biography

    Universal

    Swiss • 1894

    Universal Genève was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1894 and was originally known as "Universal Watch." Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch.

    Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their oversized cases and interesting dial designs. Key models include a variety of "Compax" models such as the "Nina Rindt" or "Evil Nina," the Uni-Compax, the Space-Compax, the Aero-Compax and the Film-Compax.

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Property of a Japanese Collector

52

Ref. 224118
A possibly unique and well-preserved oversized stainless steel wristwatch with stopwatch function

Circa 1950
44.5mm diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$78,000 - 160,000 
€9,200-18,800
$10,000-20,500

Sold for HK$762,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com

TOKI: Watch Auction

Hong Kong Auction 22 November