Tudor - The New York Watch Auction: NINE New York Saturday, December 9, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Tudor
    Year: 1968
    Reference No: 7016/0
    Case No: 623’825, case back interior stamped 7528, i.68, case back engraved M. N. 74
    Model Name: Submariner Marine Nationale
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2468, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Nylon
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel MN
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Region Maritime Atlantique Service O. C.I./D.C. decommission papers

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex introduced Tudor to the market in 1945 with the intention of producing high quality watches at an affordable price. Throughout its history, Rolex used the Tudor line to experiment with different designs and concepts, later to be used in Rolex’s own watches. Reference 7016 was launched in 1968 as part of the Submariner family. It was the second-generation Tudor Submariner, and it was offered along with the reference 7021, which featured a date window.

    The history of the Tudor Submariner intimately follows that of its Rolex counterpart, introduced in 1953 with the references 6200, 6204, and 6205. Tudor released its first Submariner, the reference 7922, the following year, and it was almost identical, but featured a non-chronometer caliber, the Fleurier 390. Like the Rolex line, the Tudor Submariner underwent various changes throughout its history, with the cases increasing in size from 37mm to 39mm, dials in either black or blue, and various caliber changes.

    The present example is a highly sought-after example made for the French Marine Nationale. As early as 1954, the French navy commissioned timepieces from Tudor beginning with the reference 7922. The reference 7016/0 along with its sister model with date, reference 9401/0 were used by French divers until the 1980s. These “issued” “MN” Submariners are among the most coveted of all Tudor Submariners, and the present diver’s watch is a lovely example with crisp and prominent military engravings of “M.N.74” on the caseback. Further enhancing the desirability of the present watch is the accompanying decommissioned certificate issued by the Marine Nationale, specifying its serial number. Tudor’s aesthetic with well-proportioned cases is appreciated by collectors, and these early military-commissioned are extremely rare and highly sought-after.

  • Artist Biography

    Tudor

    Swiss • 1926

    Almost twenty years after Rolex was founded, Hans Wilsdorf established Tudor with the intention of making more affordable watches without compromising the quality for which Rolex was renowned. Tudor was named after the British Dynasty that ruled England from 1485 to 1603, and their symbol came from the "War of Roses." After interchanging Rose and Shield symbols for a number of years, the firm replaced the Rose with the Shield logo from the 1960s until today.

    Some of the most recognized vintage models made by Tudor include the Submariner, a waterproof model first introduced in 1954, the Oysterdate, the earliest versions of which were nicknamed the "Monte-Carlo," the Heritage, which included the date at 6 o'clock, as well as the Pelagos, which translates to "deep sea" in Greek.

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19

Ref. 7016/0
An early, rare, and attractive stainless steel wristwatch, made for the French Navy with decommissioned certificate

1968
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement signed

Estimate
$12,000 - 24,000 
CHF10,800-21,600
€11,200-22,500
HK$93,700-187,000
S$16,300-32,600

Sold for $22,860

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: NINE

New York Auction 9 - 10 December 2023