77

Rolex

Ref. 19168, case interior stamped 19000

Date-Date Oysterquartz

Estimate
$50,000 - 100,000
$88,900

Catalogue Essay

Similar to cultural and societal changes in the 1960s and 70s, the horological world saw a fundamental shift when quartz movements began to replace mechanical movements. The “quartz crisis” lead to a decline in Swiss manufacturing, motivating brands to respond with new, sporty luxurious models while they moved to join the revolution towards developing their own quartz movements.

Rolex’s Oysterquartz line was introduced in 1977 using their own in-house high-precision quartz movement. Catering to those who preferred the higher timekeeping accuracy that quartz regulation enables, these models featured a thinner case and bracelet with sharp, modern angles.

The present reference 19168 is a wonderful representation of Rolex’s most glamorous timepieces of the 20th century. Fitted with an extraordinary bracelet known as the “Octopussy” – a name coined by collectors for Rolex’s most lavish version of the President bracelet. This exclusive bracelet featured round brilliant-cut diamonds on each outer link, set in an unusual cylindrical setting and flanking a center link with baguette-cut diamonds. The cylindrically set diamonds rise prominently above the links, resembling the suction cups of an octopus’s tentacles. Admiring the bracelet from the reverse side, one notices how each and every diamond is individually secured to its link via 18-karat gold screws.

The present factory gem-set model is exceptionally well-preserved with a crisp case featuring sharp case angles, a baguette-set bezel, and an elegant grey dial. The watch was serviced by Rolex in 2024 and is ready to wear.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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