Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: XI New York Saturday, December 7, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1986
    Reference No: 19168, case interior stamped 19000
    Movement No: 0140’172
    Case No: 9’188’230
    Model Name: Date-Date Oysterquartz
    Material: 18K yellow gold and diamonds
    Calibre: Quartz, cal. 5055, 11 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold and diamond Rolex Oysterquartz bracelet, max overall length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by a Deutsch & Deutsch service receipt dated April 18, 2024, Rolex service card and green leather Rolex pouch.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Similar to cultural and societal changes in the 1960s and 70s, the horological world saw a fundamental shift when quartz movements began to replace mechanical movements. The “quartz crisis” lead to a decline in Swiss manufacturing, motivating brands to respond with new, sporty luxurious models while they moved to join the revolution towards developing their own quartz movements.

    Rolex’s Oysterquartz line was introduced in 1977 using their own in-house high-precision quartz movement. Catering to those who preferred the higher timekeeping accuracy that quartz regulation enables, these models featured a thinner case and bracelet with sharp, modern angles.

    The present reference 19168 is a wonderful representation of Rolex’s most glamorous timepieces of the 20th century. Fitted with an extraordinary bracelet known as the “Octopussy” – a name coined by collectors for Rolex’s most lavish version of the President bracelet. This exclusive bracelet featured round brilliant-cut diamonds on each outer link, set in an unusual cylindrical setting and flanking a center link with baguette-cut diamonds. The cylindrically set diamonds rise prominently above the links, resembling the suction cups of an octopus’s tentacles. Admiring the bracelet from the reverse side, one notices how each and every diamond is individually secured to its link via 18-karat gold screws.

    The present factory gem-set model is exceptionally well-preserved with a crisp case featuring sharp case angles, a baguette-set bezel, and an elegant grey dial. The watch was serviced by Rolex in 2024 and is ready to wear.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 19168, case interior stamped 19000
An extremely rare, impressive, and well-preserved yellow gold and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with diamond-set grey dial and diamond-set “Octopussy” bracelet

Circa 1986
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
$50,000 - 100,000 
CHF44,000-87,900
€46,900-93,700
HK$389,000-777,000

Sold for $88,900

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
watchesny@phillips.com

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: XI

New York Auction 7 - 8 December 2024