Tool watches of the mid-20th century are some of the most collectible and sought after timepieces today, and the Rolex reference 6542 GMT-Master, released in 1954, is a first-generation model appreciated for its innovative mechanism and rare Bakelite bezel. Rolex developed the dual time zone watch in conjunction with Pan American airways so their personnel could tell both “local” and “home” time while traveling. With the introduction of the jet engine, intercontinental travel had become much more common and commercially available thus both flight staff and traveling executives needed a means to monitor time as they traveled across multiple time zones. Rolex created an ingenious method using the rotating Bakelite bezel that worked in conjunction with a fourth, 24-hour center hand permitting the wearer to clearly keep track of two time zones. The model had a robust, masculine appeal with highly legible dial, and the blue and red Bakelite bezel, unique to the reference 6542, allowed for the use of luminous numerals, which allowed the time to be visualized in the dark. Unfortunately, Bakelite, a type of plastic, proved to be fragile and could easily be chipped or cracked when the watch was either dropped or hit too hard against an edge. Within a few short years, Rolex released in 1959 a new model GMT-Master, the reference 1675, which replaced the Bakelite bezel with a far more resilient aluminum bezel insert. The model became an icon for sophisticates, and had such an international allure that in 1964, producers of the James Bond thriller, “Goldfinger”, featured it on the wrist of the female criminal, Pussy Galore.

The present reference 6542, made circa 1958, is a lovely example of the model. It’s fitted with its original and still-glossy black lacquer dial with gilt lettering and luminous hour markers that have aged, along with the hands, to a warm brown hue. The case is beautiful, having never been polished, and retains its beautiful, crisp facets and original dimensions as delivered by the factory so many decades ago. The original luminous Bakelite bezel, so often missing or replaced on this reference, has aged gracefully over the last 60 years. Over the years, the GMT-Master has remained a perennial favorite amongst enthusiasts and the general public alike due to its practical functionality as a simple-to-use travel watch. It is a model that has a casual flair, which is suitable both in formal and informal settings, and complete, early examples like the present lot are wonderful watches that provide a window on to the innovative history of the brand and this iconic model’s origins.