Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX Hong Kong Saturday, November 23, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1971
    Reference No: 1680, repeated inside caseback and “1.70”
    Movement No: D727’015
    Case No: 2’881’516
    Model Name: Submariner, “Red Sub”, MK IV
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex folded Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “280”, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “3.70”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by undated Rolex guarantee stamped Edwards Lowell, Malta, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1967, the Submariner reference 1680 was the first model to feature a date function, and the inclusion of this complication ignited a spirited debate among watch aficionados that continues to this day.

    As seen on this particular timepiece, it displays a “feet first” depth rating and a single line of red “Submariner” script which is only present in the early examples of the 1680, earning it the nickname “Red Sub”. These rare Submariners, with their striking pop of red, are highly coveted among collectors and represent a significant milestone in the evolution of this iconic sports model.

    Among the various iterations of "Red Submariner" dials identified by scholars, this example features a Mark IV dial, produced approximately between the 2.45 million and 3 million serial numbers. This dial is characterized by the open 6’s in the depth rating and the red lettering of "Submariner" printed over white graphics. Boasting a well-preserved dial that enhances its vintage appeal, the luminous material has aged beautifully, resulting in a charming light yellow hue. Bearing a serial number of 2.8 million from circa 1971, this exquisite timepiece is further accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

1004

Ref. 1680, repeated inside caseback and “1.70”
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK IV dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1971
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$100,000 - 200,000 
€11,700-23,400
$12,800-25,600

Sold for HK$165,100

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX

Hong Kong Auction 23 - 24 November 2024