Rolex - Hong Kong: Watches Online Auction I Hong Kong Thursday, July 21, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1986
    Reference No: 16550
    Movement No: 1’495’943
    Case No: 9’069’719, 16550 repeated inside caseback
    Model Name: Explorer II
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78360”, endlinks stamped “501”, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “J2”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by an undated Rolex guarantee stamped Carl Hilscher Munich, instruction manuals, product literature, purchase invoice, 1985 calendar card, green passport holder, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Replacing the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 “Freccione” in 1985, the ref. 16550 was released featuring similarly a 24-hour calibrated metallic bezel with an updated typography and featured a dial with white gold ringed luminous plots. The reference was made available with either black or a white dial. However, the reference is most notably known for its white dial variants as over the years some examples developed a creamy ivory hue at random due to the nature of the lacquer used on the dial. One of the most notable upgrades features in the reference is the implementation of a sapphire crystal. Early examples featured white gold ringed luminous plots, while later examples featured a blackened border similar to the ref. 16570.

    The present example Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 from circa 1986 with a 9 million serial features the rare and desirable “cream” rail dial with applied white gold ringed luminous plots. Boasting an attractive and balanced patina as well as a sharp case, it is also blessed with its full set of accessories including its original invoice from 1986.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16550
A rare and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, 24-hour indication, “cream” rail dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1986
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$100,000 - 200,000 

Sold for HK$277,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia 
+852 2318 2001

Hong Kong: Watches Online Auction I

21-27 July 2022 (Registration ends 6pm HKT 26 July)