1062

Rolex

Ref. 16550, repeated inside caseback

Explorer II

A rare and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, 24-hour indication, “cream” rail dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Estimate
HK$150,000 - 250,000
€18,000 - 29,900
$19,200 - 32,100
HK$279,400
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1985
Reference No
16550, repeated inside caseback
Movement No
1’071’456
Case No
8’431’062
Model Name
Explorer II
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78360”, endlinks stamped “501”, max length 185mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “I12”
Dimensions
40mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 6th October 1985 stamped Marui Kawaguchi, instruction manual, green card holder, product literature, service invoice, Rolex Japan service guarantee dated 29th May 2019, hang tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
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Catalogue Essay

As the first reference within the Explorer II lineage to offer a white dial variation, the ref. 16550 holds significant appeal among collectors seeking its updated aesthetic compared to its predecessor. Introduced in 1985, this reference has an upgraded sapphire crystal but was shortly discontinued after a few years. Notably, some of the earliest examples develop a charming "cream" hue on the white dial surface over time, further enhancing its desirability among collectors. Furthermore, early models of the ref. 16550 featured white gold-ringed luminous plots, while later examples adopted a blackened border similar to its successor, ref. 16570.
The present lot is likely one of the earliest examples, manufactured around 1985, and it was originally sold by a Japanese retailer on 6 October 1985. Its exceptional preservation is evident, particularly with its super rare and early "rail dial." The dial showcases a uniform graduation of the cream hue, and the luminous material has aged beautifully to a desirable buttery tone and texture, bestowing the watch with a distinctive vintage charm. Notably, this timepiece comes with comprehensive documentation, including all service invoices and papers from Rolex Japan, its original guarantee, and the original presentation box.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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