Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1985
    Reference No: 16550, repeated inside caseback
    Movement No: 1’071’456
    Case No: 8’431’062
    Model Name: Explorer II
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “78360”, endlinks stamped “501”, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “I12”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 6th October 1985 stamped Marui Kawaguchi, instruction manual, green card holder, product literature, service invoice, Rolex Japan service guarantee dated 29th May 2019, hang tag, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    As the first reference within the Explorer II lineage to offer a white dial variation, the ref. 16550 holds significant appeal among collectors seeking its updated aesthetic compared to its predecessor. Introduced in 1985, this reference has an upgraded sapphire crystal but was shortly discontinued after a few years. Notably, some of the earliest examples develop a charming "cream" hue on the white dial surface over time, further enhancing its desirability among collectors. Furthermore, early models of the ref. 16550 featured white gold-ringed luminous plots, while later examples adopted a blackened border similar to its successor, ref. 16570.

    The present lot is likely one of the earliest examples, manufactured around 1985, and it was originally sold by a Japanese retailer on 6 October 1985. Its exceptional preservation is evident, particularly with its super rare and early "rail dial." The dial showcases a uniform graduation of the cream hue, and the luminous material has aged beautifully to a desirable buttery tone and texture, bestowing the watch with a distinctive vintage charm. Notably, this timepiece comes with comprehensive documentation, including all service invoices and papers from Rolex Japan, its original guarantee, and the original presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

1062

Ref. 16550, repeated inside caseback
A rare and attractive stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, date, 24-hour indication, “cream” rail dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1985
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$150,000 - 250,000 
€18,000-29,900
$19,200-32,100

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024