Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1983
    Reference No: 16808, inside caseback stamped “16800”
    Movement No: 1’280’028
    Case No: 8’083’971
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped “46”, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “92908” and “J3”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated 30th July 1988, green card holder, product literature and 1984 calendar.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 series introduced in 1979 represents a significant chapter in the history of the Submariner. It succeeded the ref. 1680 series, which was the first Submariner to include a date function. While the overall aesthetics of the ref. 16800 remained similar to its predecessor, the replacement of the plexi glass with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal was a groundbreaking development in the watchmaking industry. The ref. 16800 also introduced the calibre 3035 movement, which included a practical quick-set date function that could be adjusted via the crown at 3 o'clock. Additionally, a unidirectional rotating bezel was incorporated, rotating only counterclockwise to enhance safety during dives.

    Among the ref. 16808 series, two variants were created, with the first featured a blue dial and a matching blue bezel insert, while the second had a black dial with a black bezel insert. Production of the ref. 16808 ended in 1987, with its stainless steel counterpart ceasing production the following year.

    The present watch is a beautifully preserved example with an unusual and special matte blue dial. Positioned between the standard black matte dial and the blue radial dial, this highly sought-after "nipple dial" is believed to be one of the experimental test dials that Rolex used to explore variations in their catalog. Despite over 40 years of age, the dial has aged beautifully and is very well-preserved, maintaining its excellent overall condition. Furthermore, the watch is accompanied by its original guarantee. With its unique and rare dial, this early gold Submariner ref. 16808 is sure to attract attention as one of the most appealing and distinctive examples available in the market.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Property from an Important Asian Collector 重要亞洲私人收藏

1028

Ref. 16808, inside caseback stamped “16800”
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, matte blue dial, bracelet and guarantee

Circa 1983
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$250,000 - 350,000 
€29,900-41,900
$32,100-44,900

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024