Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV Hong Kong Monday, November 28, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: 5’728’582
    Case No: D822’670; inside caseback stamped “1680”
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped "57", max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Marking the beginning of a new era, Rolex introduced the ref. 1680 in 1966, the first Submariner reference to feature a Cyclopes date function. Initially launched in stainless steel, the early examples featured the desired red “Submariner” dial and it was not until a few years later that Rolex introduced its elevated 18K yellow gold counterpart. Another milestone yet, the ref. 1680 in yellow gold was also Rolex’s first Submariner to be encased in the precious metal to cater towards the luxury demand followed with professional capabilities.

    Adding a hint of flare and flamboyance to the famed professional diver’s wristwatch, gold examples were offered with two options, a matte black dial with a black bezel insert or a metallic blue dial with a blue bezel insert. Equally stunning in each combination, the present example features a well-preserved matte black nipple dial with a matching black bezel. Extremely masculine and stunning, the gold date wheel is a perfect contrast against its rich dial, a truly coherent design through and through. The black bezel insert has slightly aged with a faded gun metal grey, giving this watch a taste of vintage charm. Presented in an attractive overall condition and paired with an 18K gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, this is the Submariner that won’t go wrong dressing up or down.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A fine and attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, “nipple dial” and bracelet

Circa 1978
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$150,000 - 320,000 

Sold for HK$214,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV

28 - 29 November 2022 (Online Registration ends 27 Nov, 2pm HKT)