Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV Hong Kong Monday, November 28, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1976
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D'424'560
    Case No: 4'198'668
    Model Name: Submariner "Purple Haze"
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 230mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by an associated Rolex Guarantee stamped G. Hirante & Figli.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date. As a tool watch, the majority were made in stainless steel, with the first examples displaying the depth rating in meters first followed by the equivalent in feet. Furthermore, these models featured the name of the model, Submariner in red, leading collectors to nickname the model “Red Submariner”.

    However, the present watch was a little more than just an extremely performing tool watch; it was a wristwatch catering to active people who wanted an extra touch of luxury. Reference 1680 was the first Rolex dive watch to be cased in gold. The present lot with a yellow gold case and blue bezel perfectly complement the dial, which initially was blue but developed to a purple hue with time. The blue is still present on the periphery of the dial and subtly turns to a lighter purple closer to the center of the dial.

    Overall in excellent condition and offered with an associated Rolex guarantee, the present watch is an extravagant version of the iconic Submariner.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1059

Ref. 1680
An attractive and rare yellow gold diver's wristwatch with date, center seconds, purple "tropical" dial and bracelet

Circa 1976
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$200,000 - 400,000 
€25,700-51,300
$25,600-51,300

Sold for HK$352,800

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
[email protected]

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV

28 - 29 November 2022 (Online Registration ends 27 Nov, 2pm HKT)