Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1942
    Reference No: 3525
    Case No: 185'869
    Model Name: Oyster Chronograph "Barilotto"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 13''', 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster expandable riveted bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped "3 57" and hand-engraved "Z86944"
    Dimensions: 35mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, dial furthermore signed by retailer

  • Catalogue Essay

    Reference 3525 was launched in 1939. An important breakthrough model for the firm, the model featured one of Rolex’s most important technological advancements: it was Rolex's very first chronograph wristwatch to be housed in an Oyster case equipped with screw-down caseback along with screw-down crown. This is an important step on the way to the “true” Oyster case (back, crown and pushers all screw-down) which will be introduced to Rolex chronographs with Daytona ref. 6240 in 1965.

    Displaying crisp and sharp lines, this reference 3525 is fitted with a black lacquer dial preserved in lovely condition. While over time most Rolex glossy dials loose their shine, in this case it is still remarkably present for a watch 80 years old. Furthermore, tiny oxidation spots that blossomed around the numerals and subcenters create a sort of halo around these details which is as uncommon as it is pleasant.
    Compounding to its appeal, the present watch was retailed by hallowed Zurich retailer Beyer, as proudly displayed on the dial. Furthermore, the clasp displays a hand engraved inventory number, and another number is also visible beneath the lug.

    The model is affectionately called "Barilotto" by italian collectors (little barrel) given that the narrow lugs impart to the case a markedly “tonneau” vibe. With the case number and reference number well preserved on the outside caseback, it is obvious that the piece was subject only to sympathetic polishing over the years - otherwise these sensitive details would have been lost.

This watch most interestingly displays very similar design specifications to the reference 3525 "Prisoner of War" watches that Rolex supplied to detained British army officers in WWII German war camps. These watches were often fitted with a black dial, gold graphics and luminous hands.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 3525
A fascinating and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black gloss dial and bracelet, retailed by Beyer Zurich

Circa 1942
35mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed by maker, dial furthermore signed by retailer

Estimate
CHF30,000 - 60,000 
€31,900-63,800
$34,900-69,800

Sold for CHF33,020

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024