Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1970
    Reference No: 1680
    Case No: 2'385'414
    Model Name: Submariner "Red Sub"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Nato strap
    Clasp/Buckle: Steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by instruction and Warranty booklet with punched guarantee page stamped by Marseille retailer "Le Diamant Blanc" and dated May 17, 1971, Rolex punched Attestation de Chronomètre officiel, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging. Furthermore delivered Stainless steel Rolex Oyster folded links bracelet stamped "7836" and "280" to the endlinks, max length 200mm and stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped "2 71"

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following, devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day.

    Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. Early examples, such as the present one, display a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name "Red Sub”, while later examples feature white graphics. Red Subs are today extremely sought-after timepieces in virtue of their aesthetic quirkiness and of their historical importance as the first Submariner examples with date. Even within the Red Submariner family of dials, one can notice an evolution of the graphics with 6 variations (Marks). The present early specimen features a Mark III dial, recognizable from the meter first arrangement of the depth rating, a feature shared by Mark I to Mark III dials. Mark III dials are furthermore defined by the thicker font - compared to MK II - used for the depth rating as well as an "open" 6. Mark III dials can be found on examples from about 2.15M serial to 2.45M - alongside MKII dials as both were made at the same time.

    The present "Red Sub" is made even more collectible and attractive by its dark chocolate dial, the tropical hue absolutely even throughout the entirety of the dial. A further appeal is given by the "complete" nature of this watch which is accompanied by all of its original accessories: not only the warranty booklet, duly punched with the watch number stamped with the retailer stamp and dated. It furthermore bears the original Chronomètre Certificate - a hardly ever seen rarity.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

179

Ref. 1680
A rare and very attractive stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, chocolate "tropical" dial and guarantee

Circa 1970
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000 
€21,300-42,600
$23,300-46,500

Sold for CHF30,480

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024