Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1991
    Reference No: 16600
    Movement No: 6'134'390
    Case No: N'421'567
    Model Name: Sea-Dweller “COMEX”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93160”, endlinks further stamped “93160”, max length 235mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “R1”
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Comex attestation, Rolex box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    For the connoisseurs of vintage Rolex sports watches, most would agree that one of the most celebrated and important collaborations was between Rolex and COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) based in Marseilles.

    As of the late 1960s, Rolex exclusively supplied Submariner and Sea-Dweller models featuring the patented helium escape valve to the maritime company. These utilitarian tool watches were issued to their specialist divers with each watch marked COMEX on the dial and numbered on the rear. Fabled and sought-after by collectors, each of these issued watches symbolises the endurance of professionals with a unique story behind that makes them exceptional and unique.

    While Rolex was the timekeeping instrument for COMEX, a series of wristwatches exceptionally featured the “COMEX” logo on the dial throughout its decades of relationship. The last reference to feature such “COMEX” logo on the dial was in fact the Sea-Dweller reference 16600, showcased in the present example.

    Released in 1988, the reference 16600 enjoyed a long production run of 20 years and was discontinued in 2008. However, it was not until 1992 that the reference 16600 was utilized by COMEX. Based on research, the reference 16600 was made with 200 examples featuring the “COMEX” logo on the dial between 1992 – 1997, with its batch number starting from 3200 and ending at 3400 (The present example bearing number 3225). During the period, the reference 16600 was used in HYDRA - LUDION missions 1 and 2, which were historical undersea missions whose purpose was to study a new deep diving process using hydrogen instead of helium.

    The present example of Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16600 COMEX with an “N” serial from circa 1992 bearing batch number “3225” is inscribed in the correct manner for the period on the caseback and is further accompanied by its COMEX attestation, Rolex fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

153

Ref. 16600
A very fine, attractive and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch center seconds, date, helium escape valve, bracelet, COMEX attestation letter and presentation box, made for COMEX

Circa 1991
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 80,000 
€42,600-85,100
$46,500-93,000

Sold for CHF95,250

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024