Manufacturer: Rolex Year: Circa 1977 Reference No: 1680 Movement No: D'550'017 Case No: 5'056'552 Model Name: Submariner Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather NATO Clasp/Buckle: Steel Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
Catalogue Essay
Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a "meters first" depth rating, with the "Submariner" script printed in red, hence the name "Red Submariner". Later examples like the present watch featured the "Submariner" script printed in white.
This reference 1680 displays a particularly crisp case. Sharp bevels are present and the tops of the lugs display a strong satin finish. The dial is offered in an equally excellent state of preservation. The luminous material on the dial displays warm patina, matching the hands. Rarely can one find a tool watch in such condition.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.