A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1972
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D'279'411
    Case No: 3'268'430
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 380, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex twinlock deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Few retailers have had a relationship with Rolex like Tiffany & Co. has. The jeweler has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of Rolex wristwatches, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona. The present watch not only displays the Submariner script in red, but also bears the signature of the storied retailer at 6 o'clock further adding to its appeal and collectibility.

    Other details are correct, such as the Mk 4 dial, which is correct for a Submariner with a 3.2 million serial number. Characterized by open 6s in "660", the dial also displays a thick red Submariner font. The numerals have aged to a warm honey tone, giving this timepiece a lot of character. Of particular note is the "PATETED" engraving on the bracelet. Rolex had made a typo when manufacturing the bracelets and mounted them anyway. Today, these bracelets are particularly sought-after by collectors.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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130

Rolex

Ref. 1680
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Circa 1972
39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF25,000 - 35,000 
€22,000-30,800
$25,600-35,900

sold for CHF47,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018