A rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver's wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and fitted presentation box

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1971
    Reference No: 1680 inside case back stamped III.71
    Movement No: D'202'584
    Case No: 3'073'149
    Model Name: "Red" Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex twinlock deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated February 9, 1974, two Factory Service Guarantees dated December 23, 1975 and April 7, 1981, anchor, product literature, wallet, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched around 1967, reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to be fitted with a date function. The model was most typically cased in stainless steel. Early examples displayed a ‘meters first’ depth rating, with the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name "Red Submariner".

    Offered with its original guarantee and two service cards, the present watch most notably displays a dial with "pumpkin" patina. Over time, the luminous material on the hands and numerals have aged from white to an arresting and intense orange tone that is particularly beloved and cherished by collectors.

    Carrying a 3 million serial number, this watch displays a "Mk 4" dial, which is characterized by the "feet first" script and distinctly open "6". Furthermore, the red Submariner script is printed on top of white. These attributes are correct for the serial range.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 1680 inside case back stamped III.71
A rare, attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver's wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and fitted presentation box

Circa 1971
39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF12,000 - 24,000 
€10,600-21,100
$12,300-24,600

sold for CHF45,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018