Rolex - Geneva Watch Auction: FOUR Geneva Friday, November 11, 2016 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1972
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D869'487
    Case No: 3'291'043
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Oyster bracelet, max length 215mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Officially launched in 1966, the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 marked the beginning of an era, as it was the first of the Submariner family to include the date, and the first of Rolex's diving watches to be encased in yellow gold. The gold Submariners were available either with a blue dial and matching bezel or like the present lot featuring a black dial and matching bezel.

    Gold is more often than not associated with "dress watches" whereas with the present sports Rolex was ahead of its time. Reference 1680 was available in two versions: with blue metallic dial and matching bezel as well as with black matt dial, again with matching bezel, like the present watch.

    The original crystal has been replaced with a domed crystal doing without the cyclope habitually seen in Submariners and providing for a certain visually tasteful restraint. Not often seen in yellow gold and preserved in superb condition, the present lot is a worthy addition to any Rolex collection.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A very well preserved and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, center seconds and bracelet

40mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

CHF15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for CHF35,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

Geneva Watch Auction: FOUR

Geneva Auctions 12 – 13 November 2016