1977, the years ref. 18049 was launched, is a pivotal year for the calendar lines of Rolex timepieces (Datejust and Day-Date) as new movements are introduced superseding the previous ones, which were fundamentally the same calibers of the earliest 1950s models with some incremental upgrades. With the advent of caliber 3055, the Day-Date acquired the enormously practical calendar quickset function and the entire offer of the line was completely renewed. Reference 18049 stayed in production for about a decade, until 1988, and it was distinguished by the diamond-set bezel and sapphire crystal. The 1970s were ripe with new fashion, artistic and cultural trends, and watch designs of the time reflect the carefree and daring spirit of this time. Many brands produced during this decade some remarkable artistic jewelry timepieces, but the Rolex’s creations that are most memorable and, in their simplicity, stunning are the hallowed “Stella” dials. Realised starting indeed from that decade and up to the 1990s - with a modern revival of sorts with the recent Oyster Perpetual pieces - Stella dials are distinguished by brightly coloured lacquered dials. The name itself comes from the Geneva-based company Stella SA, the paint supplier. There are four series of Stella dials:
- 1st, from the early ‘70s found on 180x models, with sloped edge and “T Swiss T” designation
- 2nd, from the late ‘70s, found on 180x and 1803x models, with flat edge and “T Swiss T” designation
- 3rd, contemporary to the 2nd, found on 180xx models, with flat edge and “T Swiss Made T” designation, the present example
- 4th, from the late ‘80s, railway minute divisions combined with Roman numerals
The present watch is a very early example of the reference, most likely made in the first year of its production, and furthermore preserved in absolutely astounding condition. The dial is simply flawless, and the sharpness of the case combined with the light surface marks and the unspoiled different finishes lead us to believe that it has in fact never been polished. On top of that, anecdotal evidence seems to lead to the conclusion that the present reference 18049 with burgundy Stella dial is part of a very restricted production made on request of a ruling Middle Eastern family. While there is unfortunately no way to confirm such a background to the piece, it is undeniable that the momentous aesthetic impact created by the white gold case shining with diamonds and the deep liquid red of its Oxblood dial is indeed fit for a king. Compounding to it the rarity and spectacular condition of the watch, the final result is an unmissable opportunity for the collector of rare vintage pieces.
