Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XV Geneva Saturday, May 7, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1961
    Reference No: 1675
    Movement No: D54830
    Case No: 696'935
    Model Name: GMT-Master
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex C&I Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 1.62
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee, presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1954, Rolex launched one of its most iconic models: the GMT-Master. The timepiece was initially developed in collaboration with Pan American Airlines as to enable their pilots to simultaneously keep track of two time zones when flying from one location to another. Fitted with an extremely fragile Bakelite bezel, reference 6542 was replaced in 1959 by reference 1675 fitted with a more robust metallic insert.

    In addition to the new metallic bezel insert, the case design was reinforced by crown guards. The very first examples of this reference were fitted, like the present watch, with pointed crown guards. The dial remains the extremely attractive black glossy dial until 1966 when matte dials were introduced on the reference.

    The present reference 1675 is part of the very few examples to display an exclamation mark. These dials were produced only for a short period of time in around 1962 and are defined by the minuscule dot of luminous material present under the 6 o’clock hour marker. Scholars debate that this aesthetic quirk indicated a less radioactive material on the dial (the early 60s was when concerns about radioactive material in dials prompted producers to lower the radiation levels eventually switching from radium to tritium).

    Its ultra-attractive black glossy dial gives the watch a rich and deep aspect which contrasts nicely with the red and blue bezel whose colour has started to fade. Presented on a Rolex C&I Oyster bracelet, it is further accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1675
A rare and attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatch with center seconds, black "Exclamation Mark" lacquer dial, date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

Circa 1961
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF30,000 - 60,000 

Sold for CHF52,920

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 22 317 96 63

The Geneva Watch Auction: XV

Geneva Auction 7 - 8 May 2022