Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE Geneva Saturday, May 11, 2019 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1960
    Reference No: 1675 inside case back stamped IV.60
    Movement No: D44'585
    Case No: 624'185
    Model Name: GMT-Master
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 80, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped 4.63
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, bottom of the lug stamped with Beyer number
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex chronometer certificate, guarantee stamped Beyer and with Beyer internal number and fitted presentation box

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex produced a limited number of dials in the early 1960s featuring an "exclamation" mark, which we see on this watch. Scholars hypothesize that this designates a transitional period where Rolex lowered the radium amount on the dial. Since "exclamation" mark dials were produced for such a short time, examples like this are very rare. The numerals on this wristwatch have aged with warm patina, which consistently match the hands. The lacquer dial is intact, and all the gilt lettering has been preserved in excellent condition. This timepiece is fitted with a small tipped luminous hand, along with ‘Cornino’ pointed crown guards, which is correct for early examples.

    The present watch is particularly noteworthy as the bottom of the lug is stamped with a Beyer number that is furthermore repeated on the guarantee, reinforcing scholarship that the storied retailer had stamped their watches with an internal code.

    The red section of the bezel has faded to a dark orange tone, while the blue sector displays a vibrant blue color. The present watch is a truly fantastic example, complemented by the addition of its chronometer certificate, guarantee and fitted presentation box. Furthermore, the case is presented in excellent condition with crisp edges and sharp finishes.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1675 inside case back stamped IV.60
A rare and extremely well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, center seconds, Beyer number beneath the lug, bracelet, chronometer certificate, guarantee and presentation box, retailed by Beyer Chronometrie

Circa 1960
39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, bottom of the lug stamped with Beyer number

CHF20,000 - 40,000 

Sold for CHF87,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+ 41 79 637 1724

The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE

Geneva Auction 11-12 May 2019