Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: THREE Geneva Saturday, May 14, 2016 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1974
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D291'060
    Case No: 4'212'992
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster, max length 200mm. to 230 with the diver extension
    Clasp/Buckle: Twin lock folding clasp with diver extension
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Officially launched in 1966, the reference 1680 was the first of the Rolex Submariner family to include the date. Interestingly, reference 1680 was also Rolex’s first Submariner to be offered in gold.

    On its gorgeous black dial at 6 o’clock, emblazoned in elegant green, are found the highly coveted “Khanjar” daggers, the national emblem of Oman, signifying royal provenance. Such watches, referred to as “Khanjar” by collectors, were made on commission from His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, the Sultan of Oman. These timepieces were given as gifts to loyal servants and foreign dignitaries. The fact that the present lot is in gold signifies that it was most certainly offered as a gift to a high ranking dignitary.

    The “Khanjar” emblem on the dial also provides for particular purity as all the printing habitually found on the Submariner dial here are nonexistent. Watches with this emblem are extremely sought after, and due to their exceptional rarity, few appear on the market.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, black dial and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman

39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF80,000 - 140,000 

Sold for CHF125,000

Contact Specialist
Nathalie Monbaron
+41 22 317 81 83

The Geneva Watch Auction: THREE

Geneva Auction 15 May 2016