136

Rolex

Ref. 16568, inside caseback stamped 16500

Cosmograph Daytona

A very rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, diamond-set bezel and dial, and emerald-set hour markers

Estimate
$70,000 - 140,000
$228,600
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
1994
Reference No
16568, inside caseback stamped 16500
Movement No
111'105
Case No
W’176'600
Model Name
Cosmograph Daytona
Material
18K yellow gold, diamonds, and emeralds
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links stamped 103, max. length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock deployant clasp, stamped 78398
Dimensions
39mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement, and bracelet signed.

Catalogue Essay

Originally conceived as a utilitarian timepiece, the Cosmograph Daytona typically boasted a stainless steel case. Nevertheless, Rolex's innovative spirit led to the introduction of gem-set models as early as the 1980s. These groundbreaking models, such as references 6269 and 6270, were manufactured in exceedingly limited quantities, and are now regarded as the crown jewels of vintage Rolex collecting.

In the 1990s, Rolex intensified its endeavors for ultra-exclusive Daytonas by introducing gem-set iterations of their inaugural self-winding Daytona, featuring the renowned Zenith El-Primero based caliber 4030. A truly dazzling variant both literally and metaphorically, the present reference 16568 with baguette diamond-set bezel is certainly one of the rarest and most eye-catching.

Consdiered the direct successor to the elusive reference 6270, the reference 16568’s bezel features fixed, heavy gold bars in line with the dial’s emerald-set hour markers, acting as an hour chapter. While some examples of this reference were fitted with pavé diamond-set silver dials, the present example’s champagne dial with matching sub-dials perfectly complements the sharp yellow gold case. Preserved in outstanding overall condition, the case is in our opinion unpolished, with only minimal signs of careful wear and handling.

In a time when modern gem-set Daytonas are being offered as special, out-of-catalogue pieces to top clients, it is now evident how small the production run of the reference 16568 was, further enhancing its desirability amongst collectors.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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