908

Rolex

Ref. 6200, repeated inside caseback

"Big Crown Explorer dial"

An early, highly rare and important stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, big crown and "Explorer" dial

Estimate
HK$550,000 - 1,100,000
€65,000 - 130,000
$70,500 - 141,000
HK$889,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1954
Reference No
6200, repeated inside caseback
Movement No
11’119
Case No
32’212
Model Name
"Big Crown Explorer dial"
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Automatic, cal. A296, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel unsigned pin buckle
Dimensions
37.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed

Catalogue Essay

The identity of the first-ever Submariner watch has always been shrouded in myth and debate. Manufactured in 1953 and officially released at the 1954 Basel Fair, the Rolex ref. 6204 is widely recognized as the first official Submariner model made available to the general public. It boasted water resistance to a depth of 100 meters and featured a distinctive "Small Crown", which has since become an icon amongst all vintage Rolexes. However, an alternative version of the story suggests that Rolex had been researching a more robust and thicker model, the ref. 6200, capable of withstanding water depth up to 200 meters. Originally intended as a heavy-duty tool watch for professional users, Rolex may have wanted to perfect the timepiece before its release, explaining why the ref. 6200 has a lower reference number than the ref. 6204.

Tailored for professional diving, the ref. 6200, often referred as the "Big Crown", is the first and one of only three Submariner references to earn this nickname. Its oversized 8-millimeter "Brevet" crown enabled cutting-edge water resistance and enhanced usability in professional diving situations where it is easily accessible by gloves underwater. Among the various vintage Submariners, the most iconic variant is undoubtedly the one featuring an "Explorer" 3-6-9 dial for enhanced underwater visibility, just like the present watch.

Production numbers of the ref. 6200 "Explorer Submariners" were extremely limited, with serial numbers ranging from 31'9xx to around 32'2xx. Having a serial number of 32'212, the present watch possesses the silver "Submariner" script above 6 o'clock, making it particularly rare since most known examples of this variant do not bear any writing on the dial. Only a few correct examples in this configuration are known to exist, underscoring the exceptional rarity of this timepiece. Features the same silver "Submariner" printing on the dial, another notable example which was sold at Phillips' The Geneva Watch Auction: XI, that was discovered in a souk on the streets of Cairo, Egypt, bears a case number 46 digits apart.

This reference 6200 ticks all the boxes for passionate collectors. With its generous 37.5mm diameter, it boasts an impressive case with thick bevels and exquisite proportions. The watch retains its original Brevet crown, and the dial has formed an attractive layer of patina on top of the lacquer, adding a unique charm and bearing witness to the watch's history as a professional dive companion. This level of patina on the dial is impossible to replicate, and one can gaze upon it and imagine the various occasions this watch has ventured into.

Fresh-to-the-market, this watch was a gift from the original owner to the consignor, and it is exceptionally rare to see another example of the ref. 6200 resurface in the market. We are extremely honored to offer this historically significant Submariner reference, originally created for professionals, which showcases a highly sought-after and captivating "Explorer" 3-6-9 dial.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905

Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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