Patek Philippe - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1978
    Reference No: 3700/1
    Movement No: 1'306'579
    Case No: 540'643
    Model Name: Nautilus “Jumbo”, Oman
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold Patek Philippe Gay Frères bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 42mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Royal Khanjar fitted presentation box. Further delivered with two Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture of the present timepiece in 1978 and its subsequent date of sale on 14th January 1980.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The immense historical significance, royal provenance and utmost rarity of the present Patek Philippe reference 3700 Nautilus make it one of the most exciting and important examples to ever appear at auction. First making its auction debut at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: Three in May 2016, we are now extremely delighted and honored to be once again entrusted with this distinguished timepiece. Amongst its many virtues, its bold, white crowned Khanjar at 6 o’clock makes it an extraordinary watch of Omani royal provenance, and amongst the rarest of all Khanjar watches known to the market.

    The Khanjar—a curved dagger atop crossed swords—Oman's national symbol, was introduced by the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said upon the country's founding in 1970 and has become a coveted symbol at the intersection of Middle Eastern royalty, rarity, and intrigue. Its storied provenance captures the imagination of watch collectors worldwide. This storied emblem traces its origins to Oman's formative days as a modern nation, epitomizing the country's cultured influence in the 20th century. Few royal families forged such meaningful ties with the finest Swiss manufactures during this era. The late Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, Oman's longest-reigning monarch, was at the epicenter of these relationships.

    Of equal significance, the present ref. 3700 is distinguished by its 18K white gold case and bracelet – an extraordinarily uncommon and lavish configuration for such an early Nautilus. Manufactured in 1978, the present lot is one of only 13 known white gold examples to have graced the market since the model’s inception in 1976. Until now, only 3 examples of the ref. 3700 with Khanjar dial in white gold have surfaced on the market, including the present lot. What’s even more significant is the fact that the present example is one of two known white gold ref. 3700 that bears a crowned Khanjar – the Royal Khanjar emblem of the Sultan and his family.

    THE ROYAL KHANJAR
    Made on special commission for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, the present ref. 3700 was gifted by the Sultan himself to an esteemed recipient as a token of honor. This tradition of gifting timepieces began after the Sultan's victory over the Dhofar Rebellion aided by Britain's elite Special Forces. To convey gratitude, His Majesty presented customised "Khanjar" Patek Philippes to instrumental SAS soldiers. Special thanks to expertise knowledge provided by Dr. Helmut Crott, we now understand that those with a crowned Khanjar emblem on the dial means it was gifted from the Sultan directly, and those with the original Khanjar means that it was gifted by the state of Oman.

    According to our research, only 11 of these Khanjar ref. 3700 have surfaced on the auction market so far - 4 in stainless steel, 4 in yellow gold, and 3 in white gold, with the present lot being one of two known examples with Royal Khanjar dial. Truly an emblem of comradeship, this exclusive Nautilus conveys the profound connection between His Majesty and those who earned his respect. For the honored recipient, it signifies their integral role and the Sultan's deep personal regard.

    Ref. 3700 with Khanjar dial known to the market in stainless steel:
    Movement No. 1'304'895, Case No. 536'186, 1978
    Movement No. 1'304'896, Case No. 536'187, 1978
    Movement No. 1’304’952, Case No. 536’200, 1978
    Movement No. 1'304'954, Case No. 536'201, 1978

    In yellow gold:
    Movement No. 1'305'059, Case No. 537'348, 1978
    Movement No. 1’305’064, Case No. 537’350, 1978
    Movement No. 1'305'066, Case No. 537'352, 1978
    Movement No. 1’305’238, Case No. 537’361, 1977

    In white gold:
    Movement No. 1’306’541, Case No. 540’623, 1978 (“Royal Khanjar” emblem)
    Movement No. 1’306’565, Case No. 540’633, 1978
    Movement No. 1'306'579, Case No. 540'643, 1978 ("Royal Khanjar" emblem - Present timepiece)

    It is worth nothing that all three of these white gold ref. 3700 were subsequently sold on January 14th, 1980 according to their Extract from the Archives, attesting to the legitimacy of these Sultan special orders.

    ASPREY AND THE SULTAN
    Sultan Qaboos, an early wristwatch enthusiast, keenly collected Swiss timepieces as the industry grew into a global luxury business. His fervor never waned, even as collecting communities were still nascent. Young Qaboos attended school in England, forging a formative friendship with Tim Landon, who facilitated the Sultan's ties with John Asprey of the luxury emporium. Asprey proved instrumental in fulfilling the Sultan's wishes for double-signed watches, managing orders between Middle Eastern royalty and top Swiss brands like Patek Philippe and Rolex.

    Inspired by Royal warrants, Qaboos sought a magisterial Omani crest to lend credibility to his new reign. Beyond inspiration, Asprey enabled its application to prized timepieces as the Sultan's discreet intermediary. Through this channel, Qaboos became a prolific 20th century collector. Placing his royal crest alongside storied Swiss names carried powerful symbolism for the new state.

    As there were no authorized retailers in Oman at the time, nearly all watches commissioned by the Sultan were ordered and sold through the pre-eminent House of Asprey in London. On rare occasions however, a few exceptional pieces such as the present lot were acquired through Asprey Geneva. Accordingly, the watch is accompanied by its original box, stamped with the same crowned Khanjar emblem as found on the watch’s dial. Inside the cover of the box, one finds the prestigious stamped inscription "Asprey, 40 Rue du Rhone, Geneva" attesting to this Khanjar's exclusive Swiss origins.

    This direct Asprey Geneva lineage adds immeasurable cachet and collector appeal. The House's prestigious name in watchmaking lends authority in authenticating the piece's high caliber provenance. Within horological circles, an Asprey signature has long stood for uncompromising quality and exclusivity. For the discerning Patek Philippe collector, there can be no better certification of the Khanjar's premier pedigree than this box stamped by the venerable Asprey itself. It places this exceptional watch in rarefied air, cementing its importance for collectors and historians.

    Further kept in phenomenal condition for its age, with no signs of ever being polished, the timepiece retains its sharp bevels, angles, and curves. The original dial is free of any restorations, with handsomely matured luminous baton hour markers that align perfectly with the original hands. The newly applied Extract from the Archives confirms the white gold case and bracelet, as well as the dial with its steel baton hour markers.

    The present lot's profound historical value, noble lineage, exceptional condition, magnificent rarity accompanied by its original box of equal rarity render it one of the most enigmatic and exclusive Patek Philippe Nautilus to be offered at auction in recent years.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

    View More Works

883

Ref. 3700/1
An exceedingly rare, historically important and enigmatic white gold wristwatch with “Royal Khanjar” dial, Gay Frères bracelet, date, Extract from the Archives and presentation box, retailed by Asprey, made as a personal gift from His Majesty the Sultan of Oman

1978
42mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$4,000,000 - 8,000,000 
€480,000-959,000
$513,000-1,030,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024