Patek Philippe - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Geneva Saturday, November 5, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1987
    Reference No: 3800/3
    Movement No: 1'426'159
    Case No: 2'819'649
    Model Name: Nautilus
    Material: Platinum and diamonds
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335, 29 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 37.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Villiger Invoice Receipt dated 2nd December 2019 and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with matte black dial and 11 diamonds hour markers and an overall total count of 40 diamonds 1987 and its subsequent sale on 24 July 1987.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe introduced the mid-size reference 3800, with a reduced diameter of 37.5mm in 1981. The reference 3800 was offered with greater dial and material configurations compared to the ref 3700, it is estimated by scholars that there were approximately 20 different dial/case variations for the model. The dials were made by the Stern creations and the four "main" options that were commonly seen were dark blue with baton markers, white with baton markers, charcoal grey with Arabic numerals and black with applied roman numerals.

    Extremely fashionable and rare, the present timepiece showcases beautifully set diamonds on the dial instead of baton indexes. To further add to its elegance and refinement, the watch was further adorned with a single row of diamonds on the bezel. The greater variety further points out at the attempt from Patek Philippe to bring the Nautilus design to a wider audience.

    Another interesting aspect to note from this exceptionally rare 3800 is its date disk. There were two different colors of date discs in use throughout the production: a black disk with white numerals, and a white one with black numerals. Research has shown that black disks with white numerals were exclusively used in very early stages of production. A transition was made around the 90's with white disks and black numerals with the black disks seemingly disappearing from production.

    Just like the Patek Philippe reference 3700, we can notice minute evolutions on the dial signatures used by the Manufacture. The first peculiarity to notice is the use, or lack of, an accent above the second “E” in “GENEVE”. Scholarship has noticed that there have been fewer examples with the accent, like the present timepiece, intrinsically rendering the timepiece rarer, with most of the production not having one. Another peculiarity to notice is the thickness of the font that has changed from lighter in earlier production series to thicker in later production examples.

    Most importantly, the present timepiece is cased in platinum, an extremely rare and infrequent case used for the reference 3800 collection, the present example is one of only 16 known ref 3800/3 in platium knoen.. The three most seen metal types from the collection where yellow gold, stainless steel and two-tone. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present timepiece truly embodies the meaning of the word "rare" - its allure, charm and compact size make the present timepiece an excellent companion that can be dressed up or down, and can accompany you during the night for special occasions or for your day to day, making this an occasion that the most discerning and forward-looking collector will unlikely miss out on.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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170

Ref. 3800/3
A highly rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet

1987
37.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF80,000 - 160,000 
€82,400-165,000
$80,100-160,000

Sold for CHF107,100

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East
+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com
 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva
+41 22 317 96 63
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI

Geneva Auction 5 - 6 November 2022