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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1987
    Reference No: 3800/108
    Movement No: 1'426'007
    Case No: 2'824'029
    Model Name: Nautilus
    Material: 18K white gold, diamond and sapphire-set
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels, stamped with
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold and diamond-set Patek Philippe bracelet, max length 170mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 37.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1987 with diamond Pavé, 3/4 sapphire hour markers and 1220 diamonds, and its subsequent sale on May 13, 1987

  • Catalogue Essay

    Bejewelled timepieces have been for a long time “sleepers” in the world of watch collecting. It is only in recent years that the market rediscovered them for the form of industrial art they represent: the gem setting standard achieved by top end watchmakers easily rivals that of the most important jewellers and the aesthetic power of these timepieces is often breathtaking.

    Spurred by the introduction of iconic contemporary pieces such as the Gem-set Nautilus and the Rolex Rainbow, gem-set watches are finally reaching a level of collectability equal to that of their less adorned siblings.

    Patek Philippe has always taken enormous pride in the gem-setting standard achieved in its workshops, even when bejewelled timepieces were either diminutive ladies watches or hard-to-sell large-size pieces. The present watch exemplifies the attention to detail and overall superb mastery of the craft achieved by the company. A fully bejewelled Nautilus from the year 1987 is also testament to Patek Philippe's market strategy: even at a time when gem-set watches were less popular, they decided to create fully diamond-encrusted Nautilus versions, possibly as “statement pieces”. It is no surprise that the model did not find many clients, and it is thus one of the rarest Nautilus versions ever made.

    So far, only five examples 3800/108 have resurfaced on the public market.

    A closer look at the watch highlights not only the aforementioned superb gem-setting skill of Patek Philippe artisans, but also the attention to detail of their design department. For example, when looking at the tiny sliver of case between the lugs, one notices that it is too narrow for diamonds to be set in it. So, in order to minimise the difference in looks with the adjacent gem-set lugs’ topside, the band is hand engraved with tiny dots mimicking the sparkling effect of diamond pavé.

  • Maker Bio

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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107

Ref. 3800/108
An outstanding, important and very rare white gold and gem-set automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet

1987
37.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
CHF100,000 - 200,000 
€94,300-189,000
$103,000-207,000

sold for CHF287,500

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

41 79 637 1724
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XI

Geneva Auction 27 - 28 June 2020