A fine and very rare 14K yellow gold square triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and fancy lugs

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  • Manufacturer: Omega
    Year: 1953
    Reference No: 3944
    Movement No: 12’592’358
    Case No: 1’111’6498
    Model Name: Cosmic
    Material: 14K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 381, 17 jewels, stamped OXG
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather strap
    Clasp/Buckle: Yellow gold pin buckle
    Dimensions: 44.5mm Length, 32.5mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch and its subsequent sale on January 9, 1953 in the US.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Originally introduced to the market in 1947, the celebrated Cosmic model was Omega's first watch featuring a full calendar combined with moon phases. It was mainly available in 14K or 18K yellow gold, and less often in pink gold, fitted with various dial configurations.

    Offered in extremely appealing condition, the present example illustrates the evolution of the model over time. This example from the 1950s features a highly elaborate square construction with fancy lugs. From the 1950s to the 1970s, watchmaking design does indeed focus on much more elaborate and geometric case constructions. The trend will eventually fizzle out in the 1980s with the return of the more conventional round case style.

    The present example is made out of 14K yellow gold, a detail which makes sense as the original destination of the piece was the American market, as confirmed both by the Omega Archives and by the movement stamped OXG, a detail only found on watches sold in the USA. Swiss watchmakers sometimes employed 14K yellow gold for pieces destined to the American market in an effort to limit the impact of import duties.

    The 14K gold hallmark present to the inside of the case back is only one of two highly interesting details, the second being the case maker stamp, a 26 in a key, identifying Geneva based Ponti Gennari. Among the most reputable companies of the time, Ponti Gennari is also renowned for its bracelet production and is considered one of the most important bracelet and case makers of the past century.

  • Maker Bio

    Omega

    Swiss • 1848

    Omega's rich history begins with its founder, Louis Brandt, who established the firm in 1848 in La Chaux de Fonds. In 1903, the company changed its name to Omega, becoming the only watch brand in history to have been named after one its own movements. A full-fledged manufacturer of highly accurate, affordable and reliable watches, its sterling reputation enabled them to be chosen as the first watch company to time the Olympic Games beginning in 1932. Its continued focus on precision and reliability ultimately led their Speedmaster chronograph wristwatch to be chosen by NASA in 1965 — the first watch worn on the moon.

    Key models sought-after by collectors include their first, oversized water-resistant chronograph — the reference 2077, early Speedmaster models such as the CK 2915 and 2998, military-issued versions of the Seamaster and oversized chronometer models such as those fitted with their prestigious caliber 30T2Rg.

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Omega

Ref. 3944
A fine and very rare 14K yellow gold square triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and fancy lugs

1953
44.5mm Length, 32.5mm Width
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF10,000 - 15,000 
€8,800-13,200
$10,200-15,400

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018