Omega - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Omega
    Year: 1954
    Reference No: 2699 SC
    Movement No: 13'539'467
    Case No: 11'049'297
    Model Name: Constellation "De Luxe"
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 354, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Omega bracelet, max length 185mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold clasp
    Dimensions: 34mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Omega Extract of the Archives confirming date of production of the present watch on July 6, 1954 with cloisonné enamel dial and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Constellation collection was launched in 1952. The symbol of this collection is engraved on the back: the Cupola of the Geneva Observatory surrounded by eight stars representing the brand’s greatest chronometric achievements at the world’s observatories including the 1931 “clean sweep” at the Observatory of Geneva where Omega broke the record for precision in every category.

    In the aftermath of the 2nd World War, Omega started offering timepieces with cloisonné enamel dials depicting tropical landscapes, mythical characters, maps or coat of arms. In 1954 Omega made a small batch of cloisonné enamel dials depicting the Geneva Observatory cupola in vibrant hues of blue, turquoise and gold upon special order from a Mid Eastern client. These dials were made by Stern Frères as confirmed in their registers, furthermore the back of the dial is engraved with serial number 89 (Omega code at Stern) * (meaning made by Stern) and 475 (order number).

    To create a cloisonné enamel dial, the artist first marks out the outline of the motifs using a fine gold wire to separate the various enamel regions. The artist then applies various enamel layers depending on the desired colors, while maintaining a very strict order in terms of the nature of the enamels according to the rules governing the firing process. This meticulous operation involves numerous successive firing operations in the kiln serving to intensify the color and light effects as well as the gradation of the materials. A dangerous process as at each firing the dial can break or the enamel may react differently to the heat, resulting in a high rejection rate.

    Considering the painstaking work, talent and dexterity needed to make these dials, they were reserved for Omega’s most important watches. In overall excellent condition, the present lot is a tribute not only to Omega’s artistic chutzpah but also to its amazing field score in terms of chronometry and precision.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1848

    Omega's rich history begins with its founder, Louis Brandt, who established the firm in 1848 in La Chaux de Fonds. In 1903, the company changed its name to Omega, becoming the only watch brand in history to have been named after one its own movements. A full-fledged manufacturer of highly accurate, affordable and reliable watches, its sterling reputation enabled them to be chosen as the first watch company to time the Olympic Games beginning in 1932. Its continued focus on precision and reliability ultimately led their Speedmaster chronograph wristwatch to be chosen by NASA in 1965 — the first watch worn on the moon.

    Key models sought-after by collectors include their first, oversized water-resistant chronograph — the reference 2077, early Speedmaster models such as the CK 2915 and 2998, military-issued versions of the Seamaster and oversized chronometer models such as those fitted with their prestigious caliber 30T2Rg.

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Ref. 2699 SC
A fine and rare yellow gold wristwatch on bracelet with cloisonné enamel dial depicting the cupola of the Geneva Observatory

34mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

CHF80,000 - 120,000 

Sold for CHF106,250

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017