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953Σ

F.P. Journe

Répétition Souveraine "Black Label"

An ultra exclusive, important and rare limited production stainless steel minute repeating wristwatch with black dial, power reserve indication, certificate and presentation box

Estimate
HK$2,400,000 - 4,800,000
€265,000 - 531,000
$308,000 - 615,000
HK$6,223,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
F.P. Journe
Year
Circa 2013
Case No
066-RM
Model Name
Répétition Souveraine "Black Label"
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1408, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Crocodile
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel F.P. Journe deployant clasp
Dimensions
40mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe certificate stamped F.P. Journe Boutique Tokyo dated 19 October 2013, instruction manual, DVD, cloth, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
Catalogue Essay
A mythical presence among F.P. Journe watches, the Souveraine minute repeater was unveiled in 2008 as the thinnest minute-repeating wristwatch on the market. This ultra-thin minute repeater, encased in stainless steel—an unexpected choice for such a prestigious complication—demonstrates Journe's innovative spirit. While minute repeaters are typically crafted from precious metals, Journe opted for steel due to its superior acoustic properties as materials with lower density transmit sound more effectively, allowing the chimes to resonate with remarkable clarity. The movement, an extraordinary feat of micro-engineering at just 4.5mm thick, incorporates key innovations and a uniquely designed striking mechanism.

Like many of his other complications, the repeater mechanism devised by Journe is compact and innovative. Compared to the calibre 1304 of the time-only Chronomètre Souverain, the minute-repeating calibre 1408 is only 0.5mm thicker and 1.2mm wider, despite having nearly double the number of parts.

Conventional repeaters feature gongs that are essentially hardened steel wires, that encircle the case, with hammers located on the edge of the movement, resulting in a larger footprint or necessitating a smaller movement. To fulfill the “Invenit” in "Invenit et Fecit," Journe introduced a pair of flat hammers and gongs, a concept he first developed for a handful of grand sonnerie wristwatches he created for Piaget in the 1990s.

The flat design of the hammers and gongs allows them to be mounted directly on the main plate of the movement, which explains the aperture in the dial revealing the hammer of the repeater while most of the repeater mechanism is concealed under the dial. Activating the thin slide on the case at 10 o’clock sets the repeater in motion and the governor is located on the back, regulating the speed of the striking pattern. This design maximizes space inside the case for the calibre 1408, which shares a similar structure to that of the Chronomètre Souverain, featuring twin barrels positioned side by side and the balance wheel directly opposite.

As a result, the present repeater produces a very distinctive sound: typical repeaters emit a low tone for the hours and a high tone for the minutes, but on the Journe repeater, both hours and minutes are struck on the same gong, producing the same tone. The hours and minutes are separated by the customary double chimes for the quarters, and in the absence of quarters, a pause distinguishes them.

What makes this particular Répétition Souveraine exceptional is its exclusive Black Label dial, available only to existing owners of Journe timepieces and offered through official F.P. Journe boutiques worldwide, with extremely limited production numbers. According to our research, this is the first example to appear at an international auction. Preserved in excellent condition and complete with its full set of accessories, this Répétition Souveraine Black Label represents a rare iteration of one of the most significant horological breakthroughs in recent decades. It is sure to captivate enthusiasts of contemporary technical horology, presenting a remarkable opportunity for collectors seeking a unique specimen from the esteemed Répétition Souveraine lineage.

F.P. Journe

Swiss | 1999
Founded by watchmaker François-Paul Journe in 1999, the F.P. Journe brand is relatively young, but already is as highly regarded by collectors as many distinguished manufacturers with centuries-old heritage. In the minds of the world's savviest collectors, Journe is producing some of the finest wristwatches the market has ever seen. Mastering his craft from restoring historical timepieces, he was the first to create a wristwatch incorporating two escapements that benefit from the phenomenon of resonance — the Chronomètre à Résonance.

Key models include the Résonance, tourbillon wristwatches incorporating a remontoir and the limited edition Vagabondage series. Especially sought-after are his earliest "souscription" watches, made in 1999.
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