Cartier - Jewels New York Friday, June 7, 2019 | Phillips

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    • Cartier

    • A cushion mixed-cut sapphire, 20.70 carats
      Triangular-shaped diamonds, total 1.20 carats
      Signed, platinum, approximately size 7

    AGL Report: Burma, no indications of heating

  • Catalogue Essay

    Historically, sapphires have been an important and desirable gemstone used for adornment. For centuries, Burma, now Myanmar, has been recognized as one of the most important source for these gemstones. Rich in corundum deposits which yield the world’s finest “pigeon blood” rubies and richly saturated blue sapphires, it also is a significant source for gem quality jadeite jade, spinel, colored sapphires, peridot and amber, amongst several other gemstones. Unstable political conditions and a lack of government policy, coupled with harsh, yet beautiful terrain, and difficult mining conditions make extracting these gemstones challenging. These various and complicated factors create an inconsistent source, consequently making gem quality stones rare.

    Characteristically, this sapphire displays the opulent, intense, slightly violetish blue color and good saturation for which Burmese sapphires are best known. This ring was purchased at Cartier in the 1970s, a decade defined by change, turmoil, and the struggle for individuality. During this time, jewelry transitioned from elegant and demure diamond and turquoise suites, to bold creations of color, yellow gold and exaggerated size. This ring reflects the taste and style of what affluent clients were buying at Cartier. Brightly colored gemstones were fashionable and distinctive, making a personal statement and providing a uniqueness for each client.

    A wealthy New York shipping magnate acquired this sapphire and diamond ring for his wife in 1974. The family had residences in Belle Haven, Connecticut, a prosperous suburb of Greenwich and Long Boat Key, Florida; both near the ocean. Water and the color blue were common threads for husband and wife. It is no wonder why they would have chosen this exceptional sapphire.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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A Sapphire, Diamond and Platinum Ring

A cushion mixed-cut sapphire, 20.70 carats
Triangular-shaped diamonds, total 1.20 carats
Signed, platinum, approximately size 7

$150,000 - 250,000 

Sold for $175,000

Contact Specialist

Susan Abeles
Head of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist
New York
+1 212 940 1383
[email protected]


New York Auction 7 June 2019