Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1999 Case No: A114945 Model Name: Crash Material: 18K white gold and diamonds Calibre: Manual, cal. 160, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 38 mm length x 22 mm width Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier service invoice and pouch.
Catalogue Essay
With the recent resurgence in demand for uniquely shaped watches, Cartier timepieces have become more sought-after than ever, with the Cartier Crash leading the way. Debuting in 1967, the Crash is considered one of the most groundbreaking designs in the watchmaking world, with a backstory that is both intriguing and romantic. Its origins were clarified in 2019 by Francesca Cartier Brickell in her book, The Cartiers, where she details a conversation with her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, about the design’s inception. At the time Jean-Jacques Cartier was the head of Cartier London, and along with Rupert Emmerson, they modified a Maxi Baignoire Alongée into one of the most unique shapes ever created.
Fitted with an elegant egg-shell like white dial with classic black Roman numerals, the watch is tastefully embellished with 3 rows of diamonds throughout the white gold case and a diamond cabochon. Produced in circa 1999, the dial features an inscription with PARIS instead of the later MADE IN FRANCE. Perfectly exemplifying “king of jewellers and jewellery of kings”, the present diamond-set Cartier Crash will be a forever icon.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.