Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1999 Reference No: 2356E Case No: No. 0008 CE Model Name: Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, cal. 045 MC, 22 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 34mm width x 43mm length Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
In 1998, Cartier introduced their now coveted Cartier Privée Collection Paris (CPCP) offering an opportunity to modernise and upgrade some of their iconic models and designs. This extended to the Tortue model, first introduced by Cartier in 1912 and fitted with a European Watch and Clock movement. It was with great pride and fanfare that they reintroduced the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir in 1999, alongside a flying tourbillon and time-only version. Named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle on legs”, it was a symbol of good fortune and longevity.
The new watch was larger and contemporary, featuring the all-new chronograph caliber 045MC. This new movement is historic as it was co-developed by Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe through their firm at the time, Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Together, they developed a single-button chronograph movement with a lever escapement and clutch system with a swivel pin. Essentially, this upgrade does away with the “jolt” or “skip” the user feels when re-setting the seconds hand and allows for a smoother re-set function.
With only a 10-year production of the CPCP models ending in 2008, collectors today have grown interest in these rare and innovative timepieces, in particular to the Monopoussoir model. The present example in yellow gold features a nice case number of No. 0008 and is a fine example of the glorious period of the Parisian house of luxury.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.