Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 2000 Reference No: 2721 Case No: 019 Model Name: Collection Privée, Tortue Quantième Perpétuel Material: Platinum Calibre: Automatic, cal. 9421MC, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 37mm width x 38mm length Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
As one of the most prestigious jewelry brands, Cartier is also well regarded for its horological creations. After the quartz crisis in the last decade of the 20th century, Cartier introduced the “Collection Privée Cartier Paris” in 1998, reviving some of the house’s most iconic designs with quality mechanical movements. Finished in-house by Cartier, the movements in this collection all feature the interlaced “double C” pattern. Despite popular demand, the Collection Privée maintained a small production number, with many models limited to 50, 100 or 150 pieces.
Fitted with the house’s distinctive Tortue case, the present ref. 2721 is an exquisitely designed perpetual calendar with a dual time display. It is also cased in platinum with the self-winding cal. 9421MC, combining sophistication with practicality. The details of the dial are subtle and beautifully proportioned, with the four sub-registers contrasted against the guilloche pattern, black Roman numerals, and Breguet-style hands in blue steel. In the center sits a small rosette inspired by vintage Cartier clocks. Signed “Cartier Paris” at 12 o’clock, the timepiece is truly a homage to early 20th century watchmaking.
The present example from circa 2000 is offered in excellent condition and combines all the vintage charm of Cartier with horological excellence.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.