A Unique and Spectacular Diamond and Gem-set 'Jambi' Necklace and a Pair of Matching Pendent Earrings, Cartier

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    • Necklace suspending a drop-shaped diamond briolette, 43.40 carats

    • Harp-shaped motifs set with black onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, linked by diamond and ruby beads

    • Earring of similar design, each suspending four ruby beads

    • Diamonds and rubies altogether weighing approximately 90.00 and 39.00 carats respectively

    • Both signed Cartier, necklace and earrings numbered 26016A and H8S00137 respectively

    • Length approximately 425mm

    (43.40-carat Diamond Briolette)
    Gübelin report, numbered 0210105, dated 28 October 2002, Light Brown colour, Internally Flawless, Type IIa.
    GIA report, numbered 5191746259, L (Faint Brown) colour, VS1 clarity.

    附 瑞士Gübelin 及 美國GIA 證書

    With a Cartier Certificate, signed necklace and earrings boxes

  • Catalogue Essay

    Divine Dew of Brilliance

    Briolette is believed to be one of the oldest diamond cuttings that originated from India approximate 800 years ago. It is defined as is a pear- or drop-shaped diamond that is covered with triangular facets in its entire surface, allowing light to enter and be refracted from all sides, maximizing light return to the eye and lending it a brilliance unseen in other diamonds cuttings. That being said, the colour and brilliance of a briolette is never glaring, they are appreciated throughout history for their soft refined elegance.

    Briolette diamonds are often associated with antique and estate jewels since they were highly popular during the 17th century, however, later in that century they gave way to early versions of modern day round brilliant cut. Their popularity resurged again during the Victorian period through Art Deco years but was quick to decline due to high cost and large mass of rough required for fashioning. These are also the reasons why antique briolette diamonds are very rare in today’s market since most of them had been recut to other shapes.

    It is also worth noting that no two briolettes are exactly the same, and they are generally unencumbered by any setting except at the top, often suspended as a pendant on necklaces or earrings from the drilled channel. Aside from the infamous necklace displayed in the Smithsonian Institution which was presented by Napoleon to Empress Marie Louise containing 10 briolette diamonds, the Briolette of India that weighs 90.38 carats counts among some of the world’s most mesmerizing briolette diamonds of historical importance.


    Cartier and Exoticism: Past and Present

    Jambi, after which this demi-parure is named, is a province in modern day Sumatra, Indonesia. Strategically located, it was one of the two major centres of Srivijaya empire that flourished commercially between the 7th and the 13th centuries. During the golden age of Srivijaya, it was arguably one of the largest empire in the East, stretching from Suratthani in Thailand to West Java, gaining control two key and significant traits, namely the Malacca strait and Sunda strait. Their maritime power was the reason the Srivijaya Kingdom achieved commercial dominance and acquired wealth and riches that equalled those of Maharajas in India at that time. The Cartier brothers, collectors of antiquities and enlightened travellers, were fascinated by culture and arts from the Far East, which consequently exerted an influence on the maison’s creations. In 1913, Cartier presented a collection of fifty oriental jewels in their New York salon which marked the beginning of a remarkable stylistic journey. Everything from necklaces and tiaras, to vanity cases and clocks drew inspiration from foreign motifs, yet Cartier’s designers rarely rendered foreign traditions literally in their works, they often combined various patterns and forms that lent them aesthetic vigour and exotic flair. These unique creations have since become the most highly desired masterpieces by collectors worldwide.

    Reference to Oriental jewels is evident in this ‘Jambi’ demi-parure in the use of ruby beads and rose-cut diamond beads, exuding opulence of Maharajas who entrusted Cartier with their precious gemstones and diamonds during many visits Jacques Cartier made to India in early 20th century. India had always had its own approach to stone-cutting; emeralds and rubies were fluted and engraved, diamonds employed rose cut or are fashioned into briolette. The irregular shapes and unrefined lines were adored by Cartier as a poetic expression of natural elegance. In 1991 and 2007, Cartier presented La Route des Indes and Inde Mysterieuse high jewellery collection respectively, paying homage to this celebrated theme. On this Jambi necklace, the structured outline of the diamond-set harp motif is balanced by the erratic shapes of the ruby and rose-cut diamond beads. These elements are then anchored by an impressive briolette in a soft golden tone and subtle scintillation --- a daring combination of stylistic influences and a triumphant meeting of East and West.

  • Catalogue Essay

    濯濯甘露滴

    水滴形切割(Briolette)據說是最早出現的鑽石切割之一,早於八百多年前的印度已經開始應用。水滴形的鑽石呈梨形或滴水形,整個表面上佈滿了交义的三角形切面,讓光線能從四面八方進入鑽石,折射出萬丈光彩,其他切割的鑽石無可比擬。話雖如此,但水滴形鑽石的火彩從不像圓鑽般炫目耀眼,它的美在予其面面俱到絢麗華彩,婉然雅致,在歷史上的深得帝王貴族的喜愛。

    水滴形鑽石常常讓人聯想到古董珠寶,其實是因為它在17世紀被視為最頂級的切割,皇室珠寶中都能發現其蹤影;但17世紀末,鑽石的切割發展出當今圓鑽的始形,水滴形慢慢被取代,直到維多利亞時期至裝飾藝術時代又再一次得到珠寶商的青睞。二戰過後,因為切割水滴形鑽石成本高,所需的原石也較大,再一次被淘汰。由於上述的種種原因,想在當今市場上找到一顆古董水滴鑽石絶非易事,許多老的鑽石早已被重新切割成其他形狀,在歷史上消失得無影無踪。

    每一顆水滴形鑽石都是獨一無二的,而且在鑲嵌方面都採用全開放式,只會在尖端的部分鑽洞將鑽石串起來,所以在項鏈和耳環上尤其常見。史密森尼展館內有一條拿破崙送給法國皇後瑪麗•路易莎的項鏈以外,上面就鑲有十顆各重逾4克拉的水滴形鑽石,輝煌至極,除此以外,一顆重90.38克拉名為「印度水滴」的水滴形鑽石都是歷史上十分著名的水滴鑽石珠寶。


    卡地亞古今的東方繆斯

    此組珠寶套裝名為「Jambi」,中譯為「占碑」,是位於現代印尼蘇門答臘島上的一個城市。因為其地理位置優越,於公元七至十三世紀是三佛齊王國的重鎮之一,發展蓬勃。三佛齊於其黃金時期稱得上是東方最強盛的帝國,版圖橫跨泰國的蘇叻他尼到西爪哇,控制馬六甲海峽及巽他海峡兩個主要經商之海道,這亦是印度、中國,以至阿拉伯國商船通過印度洋的必經之路。由此可見,三佛齊王國的財富勢力絕對可媲美當時任何一位印度大君。卡地亞兄弟熱愛收藏古物,亦經常環遊四海,對於遠東的文化和藝術甚為著迷,無論是地中海金盆地、埃及、波斯、印度、中國,以至日本,每個地方都對卡地方的作品有著一定的影響。1913年,卡地亞在其位於美國紐約的沙龍展出約五十年東方風格珠寶,開啓品牌往後20多年的東方主題風格。小至項鏈及化妝盒、大至皇冠及座鐘都呈現出獨特的東方元素,但卡地亞從不依樣葫蘆,而是自接觸到的事物中汲取靈感,再轉化為品牌獨特的美學概念,應用在作品上。因為經過這種深層次的過濾昇華,這些作品堪稱是一代經典,廣收世界各地藏家歡迎。

    這組珠寶套裝就是非常好的例子,其韻味淡淡的訴說著對東方文化藝術的想像,尤其在在紅寶石珠子和玫瑰式切割的鑽石之運用上可見一斑,不難讓人聯想到上世紀初印度大君極致奢華的珠寶。那時候雅克.卡地亞多次越洋拜訪印度大君,從他們手上接過一箱又一箱無比珍貴的寶石及首飾進行改鑲,文化的衝擊同時造就了充滿異國風情的卡地亞傳奇作品。印度在切割礦材方面素來有自己的傳統,除了寶石以外,作為首個出產鑽石的皇國,玫瑰式切割和後來演變出來的水滴形切割都源自印度。雖然很多時候這種寶石的形狀和線條偏向於不規則,但卡地亞在其不完美中悟出綿綿詩意,演繹出自然隨性的典雅美。品牌在1991及2007年分別推出《La Route des Indes》及《Inde Mysterieuse》兩個以印度為主題的高級珠寶系列,亦是向品牌早年的大師之作致敬。此條項鏈上的「堅琴」圖案之線條規矩對稱,剛好用來平衡玫瑰式切割鑽石和紅寶石珠子的自由隨性,中間以一顆重逾40克拉的水滴形鑽石作為焦點,串聯上述元素。柔美的金黃閃光低調得來不失氣勢,見證東西交融的藝術構思,載譽呈獻卡地亞所代表的經典風尚。

  • Maker Bio

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Cartier

A Unique and Spectacular Diamond and Gem-set 'Jambi' Necklace and a Pair of Matching Pendent Earrings, Cartier

43.40克拉 Type IIa 水滴形鑽石 配 寶石及鑽石「Jambi」項鏈及吊耳環套裝, 卡地亞 (2)

Estimate
HK$10,000,000 - 14,000,000 
$1,300,000-1,800,000

sold for HK$10,780,000

Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels and Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 26 November 2018